Last week London saw an impressive line up of the great rosés of the world, tasted blind by the great and good of the wine press. Jancis Robinson has written up her notes in the FT, while Will Lyons has selected his top ten in the WSJ. I have no doubt more reviews will emerge over the coming weeks but there is already a recurring theme and Goedhuis Provencale favourites Ott, Leoube and Esclans all emerge among the winners.
In particular Jancis was very impressed by Chateau d’Esclans Rock Angel 2014. This is a rebranding of our old favourite Ch d’Esclans. She comments: “Château d’Esclans Rock Angel 2014 was easily the finest and most alluring wine on the table. According to all the background information supplied, this was the only wine in the tasting to contain some of the ancient Tibouren grape. Perhaps that was what appealed so strongly about the complex fume of this beautifully balanced, satin-smooth wine – and it also seemed to be the only one of the four that is reasonably fairly priced. It was this wine, above all, that proved to me that rosé can be a seriously fine wine.” She awarded the wine 18 points, which, to give some context, is higher than several of the 2014 Bordeaux First Growths!
We tasted the Esclans range in the office a few weeks ago and were similarly captivated by the Rock Angel. Here are a few technical notes from the estate.
In addition here are Will Lyons’ notes on those of our wines which made it into his top ten:
2014 Domaines Ott Clos Mireille | Recently arrived, £155 per 6 inc VAT (magnums and jeroboams also available)
One of France’s greatest rosés, this Cotes de Provence wine sits in the glass with a gorgeous pale peach color. The 2014 is fresher than previous vintages, with a delicate floral nose and some wild strawberry, finished off with juicy ripe, grapefruit. Alcohol: 14%
2014 Whispering Angel | £89 per 6 inc VAT | £100 per 3 mags inc VAT
The overriding plus factor about this wine, produced by Château d’Esclans owner Sacha Lichine in Cotes de Provence, is its finesse. Pale pink, it has a subtle, peach character with a fine, dry finish. If rosé is your thing, this is almost impossible not to like. Alcohol: 13%
2014 Château d’Esclans Rock Angel | coming soon
A new wine from Château d’Esclans – it was only bottled in March – Rock Angel is a blend of Grenache, Rolle and Tibouren. And what a stunner it is. I was impressed with its freshness. Pale in color, it has a beautiful dry finish and a cool texture. A refined, refreshing rosé. Alcohol: 14%
2014 Château Léoube Rosé de Léoube | £89 per 6 inc VAT, £188 per 6 mags inc VAT
This new offering from Château Léoube in Provence pushes the boundaries of purity and finesse. Extremely pale – it could have been the palest rosé in the tasting – it has a delicate, subtle character. Alcohol: 13%