Re-tasting several Bordeaux 2009s last month we were again impressed by the quality of this relatively unknown St Estephe chateau. Ch Cos Labory 2009 (situated across the road from Ch Cos d’Estournel) was recently tasted by the Decanter panel and got the same score (17.5/20) as Parker 100 pointers Montrose (now £2000/case- approx market price), Léoville Poyferré (£1500) and Parker 98 pointer Pichon Baron. It also scored more highly than Latour(!), Calon Segur, Duhart Milon, Lascombes and Beychevelle amongst other much more highly priced wines from this great vintage. Cos Labory 2009 was Highly Recommended and received the following note: “Sumptuous cassis and blackberry fruit with stylish new oak. Tannins well blended in. A hedonistic St Estephe. Will show increasing fruit and finesse as it ages. Drink 2015-2035. 17.75”
Directly across the road from Cos d’Estournel in St Estephe, Ch Cos Labory is a historical under-performer that has been improving in leaps and bounds over the past decades. Bernard Audoy’s focus on improved vineyard practice, stricter selection and investment in the cellar has paid dividends. Prices remain reasonable as quality rises and these wines are some of the best value in the Medoc.