November 6th 2018
Feeling surprisingly fresh and with few ill effects from dinner the night before with Nico Potel and Pascal Marchand, we headed up to Morey St Denis for our first appointment of the day at Domaine des Lambrays with Boris Champy.
This Domaine was purchased by LVMH in 2014 but very little seems to have changed here since the new owners took over. Boris was in tip top form given he’d just got off a plane from Japan and their 2017s were showing quite brilliantly. He likened the vintage to their 2006 which is high praise indeed. Beautifully crafted, with quite low acidity and lots of underlying complexity. David declared on departure that a case was destined for the Roberts cellar.
Then we popped down to Gilly Le Citeaux to go and see our old friend Laurent Ponsot in his new facility where he has been making wine since he left the family Domaine a couple of years ago. He now makes 8 white wines including 5 Meursaults, a Corton Charlemagne and for the first time a Batard Montrachet which reflected the high quality of the 2017 whites. His reds did not disappoint either with Chambolle Charmes, Griotte Chambertin and Chambertin providing an unforgettable imprint of the vintage.
Boris Champy at Domaine des Lambrays | Laurent Ponsot & Tom Stopford Sackville
Then off for a quick lunch at Le Chambolle Musigny washed down with 3 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de la Marechales from Fred Mugnier. The 2013 white was rich and ready to rock, and the 2007 and 2005 reds reflected the vintages characteristics exactly as you would expect.
Next up a fascinating set of wines at Domaine Hudelot Noellat with Charles Van Canneyt who is rightly proud of his 2017s. He said he felt the vintage had the freshness and elegance of 2001, but with a bit more density. This vintage seems to suit him being all about purity, freshness and elegance and there are some wonderful cuvées at all levels. From Bourgogne Rouge, Chambolle Village, Vosne 1er Crus and the twin Grand Crus of Romanée St Vivant and Richebourg there was much to admire. Undoubtedly a great vintage at this famous estate.
Tom Stopford Sackville | Charles van Canneyt | Jamie Strutt
We then headed to Domaine Geantet-Pansiot where we were delighted to see Vincent Geantet. Another fruit driven range of 2017s with Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Poissenots and Charmes Chambertin to the fore.
Last visit of the day was an early evening appointment at Domaine Serafin. Karine Serafin and wine maker Frederique Goulley introduced us to a lovely set of richly concentrated 2017s which combine perfectly the purity of the vintage and its bright vibrant fruit.