The 2014 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has a very complex and introverted, but captivating bouquet that draws you in, full of blackberry, briary, cold limestone and just a hint of baking powder in the background lending sweetness. The palate is sensual on the entry. There is roundness and depth here, coupled with very good substance, a hint of white pepper perhaps, and as always, with immense precision on the finish. There is nothing flamboyant here -- just a very aristocratic Volnay for long term aging. Drink 2018-2040
Protected by the village from hail. Relatively low-key nose. Roses. Really quite open and subtle. Soft tannins. Super-charming but with an undertow of really deep flavours. A soft brush of a feather on the cheek but with quite a charge of tannins and acidity – underneath. Quite complex and intellectual. Tightens up on the finish. Drink 2023-2036
This is more restrained on the nose. So pure, vivid and intense. Fine fluidity to the tannins..it is harmonious, has volume and excellent intensity. It has power, a certain svelte muscle with elegance. The texture is satin and it ripples onto a lovely long finish. Refined and yet it has a strength too.
Arriving at the family Château in Volnay and standing in the famed Clos des Ducs overlooking the village and its other 1er crus below always gives me a huge thrill. This is everything that Burgundy is all about; history dating back to 1507, and back to 1804 for the Angerville family and their ancestors, great breeding in some of the finest vineyards in the Cote d'Or and finally anability to make Pinot Noir at its very purist and best.
A red wine appellation only, wines from Volnay might be considered the most revered of southern Burgundy. They have been celebrated since the 18th century for their delicacy. But they are not fruit forward like those of Beaune or Chorey Lès Beaune nor have the brooding structure of Pommard.Instead, they have superb linearity, focus and poise while sheathed in velvety tannin. This slightly reticent personality comes out even more with a bit of age, though some can be approached very young. There are no grand cru vineyards in Volnay, but there are some excellent premier cru examples including Volnay Les Champans and Volnay Les Caillerets. Chardonnay grown in the shared Santenots vineyard must be labelled as Meursault.