En Primeur | Domaine Sérafin Père & Fils
The domaine continues under the name of Christian Serafin and his father, but has actually been run for some years by Christian’s daughter Karine and his niece Frédérique Goulley. The two cousins continue his mantra of exceptionally hard work in the vineyards on their fine selection of very old vines. Frédérique destems 100% and she remains committed to the domaine’s signature philosophy of 100% new oak for the main cuvées. They work with two coopers, Taransaud and Francois Frères, and past vintages show that this approach makes wines with a fine ability to age.
2021 Bourgogne Rouge Christian Sérafin
£175.00 In Bond £226.07 Inc VAT-
Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 86-88
Just Aux Pruniers this year as Pressonniers was recently replanted and took too much disease damage. So 4 barrels instead of 16. Concentrated purple, with a little reduction. Tasted from new barrel, which is 50% of the cuvée and certainly has quite an influence, but the fruit is very juicy. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin Christian Sérafin
£275.00 In Bond £346.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Bright red currant colour, characters of mocha, loganberry and vanilla pod. The benefit of careful chaptalisation during the vinification, gives a roundness and sweet Pinot fruit edge. The tannins give a sense of structure and fullness on the finish.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 88-90
Not quite as deep as the Bourgogne in colour, with savoury red fruit on the nose. A little bit of reduction in fact. Strawberry and fresh cherry, enough fruit to cover the wood tannins as it is sufficiently concentrated. Drink from 2027-2032.
2021 Morey St Denis 1er Cru Les Millandes Christian Sérafin
£440.00 In Bond £544.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This fine Premier Cru is in the middle of the village lying below Clos de la Roche Grand Cru and never lacks confidence. Brooding in nature, wild Black Forest gâteau fruits and cocoa. An array of dark berry flavours, an absolute mouthful of a wine with great intensity. Keen to show all its qualities in these early stages of development, this will age for a long time.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 91-93
Bright crimson purple with a light reduction. This is discreet after the Cazetiers, but quite fine. Not so much body so the wood tannins make it a little drier for the moment. But it will come together and the fruit is stylish. Drink from 2028-2035.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny Christian Sérafin
£290.00 In Bond £356.04 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Named after the source of a spring to the village, this vineyard has a natural supply of moisture, and the east/west aspect of the vineyard ensures exposure to sunshine throughout the day proving a fine advantage in the cooler 2021 summer. Dark black fruits, cassis and blackberry. There is a noticeable substance to this high-class wine, the tannins are fine, whilst remaining present. Delicious volume on the finish, and a final impression of poise and persistence.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 91-93
A little fresher and deeper in purple, with the same mild reduction, though the oak is less apparent. Excellent intensity, a dark bright fruit with a good thread of acidity and tannins which though present are not too marked. There is a suggestion of a blood red fruit behind. Drink from 2028-2036.
2021 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Baudes Christian Sérafin
£315.00 In Bond £386.04 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This fine vineyard lying alongside Bonnes Mares Grand Cru takes its name from the small huts (bodes) that once existed in remote spots in the vineyards. Often a bolder style of Chambolle, resembling Morey or Gevrey, but this year it is more typically representative of Chambolle. A multitude of red fruits, the characters of cranberry and pomegranate mix beautifully with spiced nutmeg and cinnamon, combining crunchy freshness in a crystalline fruit form. Good length and great charm.
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Burghound, Januray 2023, Score: 91-94
An ultra-fresh nose freely offers up its aromas of plum, violet, earth and a whiff of allspice. The succulent, round and concentrated medium-bodied flavors also display focused power and a taut muscularity on the compact, youthfully austere and built-to-age finale. This is excellent though its immediate proximity to Bonnes Mares is clearly in evidence so buy this with the intent of at least mid-term cellaring. Sweet spot outstanding
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 89-91
Darker than the Morey in colour with a weightier bouquet of dark fruit. As ever the tannins are a bit brutal and the acidity is higher than the other cuvees, to taste. Dark fruit with a drier finish. Drink from 2028-2035.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes Christian Sérafin
£345.00 In Bond £430.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This superb wine embodies the ethos of Domaine Serafin. Coming from two different plots in the appellation, one with vines of 70 years old and the other just over 100 years, it excelled in 2021. Bright garnet colour, a touch smoky, with deep savoury bramble fruits. A greater degree of exuberance and volume than the straight village cuvée. The tannic core is tighter in texture, giving firmness and persistence on the finish.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 90-93
A concentrated rich deep purple. Vanilla oak on the nose alongside the deeply concentrated dark red fruit. The vines date back to at least 1927, maybe older. Sweet and succulent dark raspberry fruit, fully eats up the wood tannins, with good length. This is how I remember classic Serafin. Drink from 2028-2035.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers Christian Sérafin
£370.00 In Bond £452.04 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The name Cazetiers derives from the Latin meaning for fortified place and this is one of Gevrey’s most esteemed Premiers Crus. Quite delicate in colour, brick red, this a very fine example of Pinot Noir exemplifying the variety’s and vineyard’s great elegance and finesse. Sweet raspberry and strawberry flavours, layered with cocoa bean and tobacco leaf. Extremely fine rather than powerful, with delicious bright berries on the finish. Classy.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 92-95
They now have beehives alongside the vines here. A fine even mid purple, not super saturated in colour. The most elegant nose to date. Roses and pure fresh red cherry and raspberry fruit, going through to a clean and persistent finish. Lovely. Drink from 2028-2038.
