En Primeur | Domaine Drouhin Laroze
Founded in 1850, this 12 hectare domaine is now run by the fifth and sixth generations: parents Christine and Philippe, and children Caroline and Nicolas. They have an embarrassment of riches within their armoury of four 1ers Crus and six exceptional Grands Crus, culminating with plots of both Clos de Bèze and Le Musigny. They also boast one of the finest two storey cellars in the Côte d’Or, built by members of the Prussian military on their way back from the Hundred Years War, with ideal conditions maintaining perfect temperatures for Philippe’s preferred two-year élevage in cask.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin Dix Climats Drouhin Laroze
£270.00 In Bond £343.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
4 hectares of village Gevrey Chambertin in ten different locations is a sizeable parcel and, as a result, this cuvée is a superb example of this famous Côte de Nuits appellation. Just 15% whole bunches this year and 30% new oak, this has a shining bright purple colour. Very pleasing blackberry and apple crumble scent. A relaxed and generous style, full with a generously rich sensation, rounded tannins and striking appeal on the finish.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 87-89
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Dix Climats is matured with 15% whole bunches, less than before, with 30% new oak. This is fragrant and alluring on the nose, well-defined with subtle peony and rose petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, slightly confit-like red fruit with a light but sweet finish. Enjoy this over the next decade. Drink 2024-2034.
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Burghound, January 2023, Score: 87-89
Somber if fresh aromas include those of plum, dark currant, newly turned earth and a whiff of the sauvage. The rich, generously proportioned and velvet-textured flavors contrast somewhat with the mildly tangy finish that is shaped by bright acidity. Note that there is a reasonably chance that the tanginess will gradually subside with a few years of aging. Drink 2026+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 90-92
15% whole bunch vinification. The colour is noticeably more robust than the preceding wines, as too is the bouquet, backed a little by new oak (30%) but showing a good intensity of robust raspberry fruit on the nose, which carries through across the palate. This has a good balance between fruit and structure. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin En Combes Drouhin Laroze
£336.00 In Bond £422.44 Inc VAT-
Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 85-87
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin En Combe comes from a parcel in the middle of the village that has been bottled for the first time. With 15% whole bunches, it has a smear of dark chocolate on the nose that slightly obscures the terroir expression at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet entry, but the 30% new oak just feels a bit excessive on the finish. Drink 2024-2029
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Burghound, January 2023, Score: 87-89
A slightly more elegant nose combines both red and blue pinot fruit along with plenty of earth nuances that are also reflected by the precise and vibrant if less rich flavors that also display a touch of tanginess on the lightly austere finale. Here too my projected range offers the benefit of the doubt that the tanginess will eventually diminish. Drink 2027+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 90-92
A solid deep purple. This may show the best balance of the three village Gevreys with a little more weight than En Champs and both greater finesse and persistence. The fruit, which comes from the old vine section of their 2 hectares, hides the oak well. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Au Closeau Drouhin Laroze
£435.00 In Bond £541.24 Inc VAT-
Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 88-90
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Au Closeau 1er Cru underwent some green harvest to improve the grape maturity. It has a light but focused nose - a mélange of red and black fruit with touches of sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well balanced with nicely judged acidity. Modest length, this is a well-crafted Gevrey for more early drinking. Drink 2024-2034
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Burghound, January 2023, Score: 88-91
A markedly earthier nose offers up notes of dark berries cut with humus and forest floor wisps. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess a caressing mid-palate and good energy that carries over to the delicious and sneaky long finish that is shaped by herb-tinged acidity. Drink 2028
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 90-92
15% whole bunch vinification and 60% new wood. They always have to do a green harvest here because the pinot selection can be over productive. Medium crimson colour, with quite a light bouquet. A little sucrosity to the strawberry fruit. The 2021 Au Closeau is attractive, but perhaps lacks the extra concentration of a main line 1er Cru. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£273.00 In Bond £340.42 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
An abundance of succulent berry fruits, this is silky and rich, flavours of sloes and huckleberry. Voluptuous generosity, such a distinctive character of the wines of Chambolle, there is an easy richness and ample finish.
2021 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£365.00 In Bond £457.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
An abundance of succulent berry fruits, this is silky and rich, flavours of sloes and huckleberry. Voluptuous generosity, such a distinctive character of the wines of Chambolle, there is an easy richness and ample finish.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux Maison Roche de Bellene
£495.00 In Bond £613.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The most northerly of Gevrey Chambertin’s Premiers Crus, this is an unctuously rich style of Gevrey. Flavours of tayberry and red cherry. A rewarding succulence, the tannins have a plumpness to them. Full and very good length.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Maison Roche de Bellene
£450.00 In Bond £559.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A vineyard appreciated by the Benedictine monks for many centuries, famed before the French Revolution for its bold, rich wines. Vanilla and mocha bouquet, with a firm gravelly texture. There is a rich fullness to the wine, finishing with dark olive and cumin spice.
2021 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers Maison Roche de Bellene
£237.00 In Bond £297.22 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A Premier Cru south of the town of Nuits St Georges with soils rich in clay so tends to create a more muscular style than the more northerly vineyards. Dense dark cherry colour, liquorice and dark toffee scent, this is a tight and intense wine, with spice and new leather. Savoury and rich on the finish, with smoky new oak sweetness.
2021 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses Maison Roche de Bellene
£195.00 In Bond £253.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A hugely respected Premier Cru in Savigny sitting above Pernand Ile de Vergelesses. The sandy marl soils deliver a generously rich wine. Characters of sloes and damson, this is a plump and full wine. The tannins provide an earthy texture, layered and full, with attractively sweet wild bramble fruits on the finish.
2021 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses Maison Roche de Bellene
£170.00 In Bond £216.82 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A hugely respected Premier Cru in Savigny sitting above Pernand Ile de Vergelesses. The sandy marl soils deliver a generously rich wine. Characters of sloes and damson, this is a plump and full wine. The tannins provide an earthy texture, layered and full, with attractively sweet wild bramble fruits on the finish.
2021 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses Maison Roche de Bellene
£210.00 In Bond £271.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A hugely respected Premier Cru in Savigny sitting above Pernand Ile de Vergelesses. The sandy marl soils deliver a generously rich wine. Characters of sloes and damson, this is a plump and full wine. The tannins provide an earthy texture, layered and full, with attractively sweet wild bramble fruits on the finish.
2021 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Hommage à Jean Ferté Domaine de Bellene
£195.00 In Bond £253.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Nicolas named this cuvée after his great uncle who was the driving force behind the family purchase of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or. From 60-year-old vines, there is a rich vanilla and mocha perfume. This is a structured wine, with muscle and power. Excellent depth and the ripe tannins on the finish give a feeling of composed complexity. Excellent wine.
2021 Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£350.00 In Bond £439.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Smoky sous-bois autumnal aromatics. A direct style, with great clarity of red fruits, the tannins are tightly entwined, semi-coiled spring-like. Brilliantly fresh, direct and mineral ahead of the sweet juicy berry flavours on the finish.
2021 Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£273.00 In Bond £340.42 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Smoky sous-bois autumnal aromatics. A direct style, with great clarity of red fruits, the tannins are tightly entwined, semi-coiled spring-like. Brilliantly fresh, direct and mineral ahead of the sweet juicy berry flavours on the finish.
2021 Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£365.00 In Bond £457.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Smoky sous-bois autumnal aromatics. A direct style, with great clarity of red fruits, the tannins are tightly entwined, semi-coiled spring-like. Brilliantly fresh, direct and mineral ahead of the sweet juicy berry flavours on the finish.
2021 Volnay Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£150.00 In Bond £192.82 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A flagship wine for Nicolas as a representation of his home village where he grew up. Full of alpine fruit scent, a luscious and juicy wine, with round gentle tannins. Supple and harmonious, this has gracious appeal. A magnificent example of the charms of Volnay.
2021 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru Maison Roche de Bellene
£1,850.00 In Bond £2,239.24 Inc VAT2021 Beaune 1er Cru Les Cents Vignes Domaine Rapet Père et Fils
£220.00 In Bond £283.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Bright red cherry colour, this has a sweetness of red fruits, raspberry and strawberry. Tremendous perfume, all about elegance, this will give early drinking pleasure. The tannins have a lightness of touch giving the wine an easy approachability.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 88-90
Old vines. Very similar colour. The bouquet is a little sturdier than the Clos du Roi, and there are peppery notes at the finish. Solid and sound but I find the Clos du Roi more charming. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Corton Grand Cru Domaine Rapet Père et Fils
£450.00 In Bond £559.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The Rapet Corton comes from Pinot Noir in two different parcels on the Aloxe Corton side of the hill. The vines here are planted on red iron soil providing substance and backbone to the naturally harmonious style of wine for which Vincent strives. Brick red colour, this is darker fruit in nature, with characters of Morello cherry and cassis. It has a sensual sweetness, with a firm gritty tannic core.
2021 Ladoix La Toppe d'Avignon A F Gros (Maison Parent Gros)
£190.00 In Bond £247.24 Inc VAT2021 Pernand Vergelesses Rouge 1er Cru Les Fichots Rollin Père Fils
£180.00 In Bond £235.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This, the oldest section of vines within the Rollin estate, was planted by Raymond back in 1945. The soil is an excellent representation of the appellation, combining clay and red iron with a firm bedrock of limestone. Bright purple colour, this has a fine clarity of red fruits, raspberry and loganberry. A soft acidity, with a pleasant line of tannic tension. Direct and pure.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-89
Solid and surprisingly dense purple. The bouquet is more rustic than the Savigny, a question of the vineyard, which has a good proportion of old and very old vines. A full mouthful with a more sombre style of fruit, this is really Aloxe style terroir. Drink from 2025-2028.
2021 Bourgogne Rouge Christian Sérafin
£175.00 In Bond £229.24 Inc VAT-
Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 86-88
Just Aux Pruniers this year as Pressonniers was recently replanted and took too much disease damage. So 4 barrels instead of 16. Concentrated purple, with a little reduction. Tasted from new barrel, which is 50% of the cuvée and certainly has quite an influence, but the fruit is very juicy. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin Christian Sérafin
£275.00 In Bond £349.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Bright red currant colour, characters of mocha, loganberry and vanilla pod. The benefit of careful chaptalisation during the vinification, gives a roundness and sweet Pinot fruit edge. The tannins give a sense of structure and fullness on the finish.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 88-90
Not quite as deep as the Bourgogne in colour, with savoury red fruit on the nose. A little bit of reduction in fact. Strawberry and fresh cherry, enough fruit to cover the wood tannins as it is sufficiently concentrated. Drink from 2027-2032.
2021 Pernand Vergelesses 1er Cru Ile des Vergelesses Chandon de Briailles
£395.00 In Bond £493.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This 3 hectare plot of 50-year-old vines is the family’s pride and joy and plays an ambassadorial role in the reputation of the commune of Pernand Vergelesses, in the same way as the hill of Corton does. Red cherry and cranberry aromas. The stony nature of the soil creates a wine with noticeable minerality, that in its youth can appear somewhat strict verging on austere, but with age shows sweet mature Pinot at its absolute very best. The style of the 2021 vintage is a perfect reflection of this wine’s great potential.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 88-90
The 2021 Pernand-Vergelesses Ile de Vergelesses 1er Cru comes from four hectares of vines between white and red, the vines averaging 40 years old. There is a bit of stemminess on the nose here. It's pretty earthy with wild hedgerows. The palate is nicely structured and spicy with black pepper and thyme. It's firm and just a little austere on the finish. It simply needs to gain a bit more joie-de-vivre by the time of bottling. Drink 2024-2032.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 90-93
80% whole bunch vinification- they have a significant holding, though yields were just 14 hl/ha. Glowing purple. This has a notably more classic nose, less dependent on the vinification technique. The fruit fills out the middle with a high-class raspberry fruit, fewer black notes at the back and while the dark pepper is clearly present it is more surrounded by the fruit. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Savigny lès Beaune Aux Fourneaux Chandon de Briailles
£260.00 In Bond £331.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Aromatically the perfect marriage of whole bunch wild strawberry scent and a mass of bright red fruits, with a touch of sloe, from the destalked proportion of the juice. A delicate style, the tannins are incredibly fine, giving a feeling of elegance and the finish gives the impression of thoughtful nuance.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 88-90
From a mixture of Premier and Village Cru vines, the 2021 Savigny-lès-Beaune Aux Fournaux has quite a floral, fruity nose featuring Morello cherries and crushed strawberries. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. The whole bunches lend a subtle black pepper note and a bit of flesh around its bones on the finish. Fine. Drink 2024-2033.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-90
This cuvée is made up of two thirds 1er Cru fruit and one third from the village section. Young vines are declassified, the remainder being from a 1956 plantation. 10 hl/ha in 2021 with 50% whole bunch vinification. Glowing purple with some depth. A little bit of blackcurrant. On the palate the core of the fruit wants to be in red berries but with a light chocolatey note and definitely some peppers at the back. Fair length. Drink from 2025-2028.
2021 Savigny lès Beaune 1er Cru Les Lavières Chandon de Briailles
£310.00 In Bond £391.24 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This fine vineyard was planted in 1956 and the domaine has a peach of a location mid-slope, facing south and southeast. A perfume of violet and mountain berries. Such a gracious and sensual style, with a charming volume of plumpness and richness and a soft sweetness on the finish. Delicious.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 89-91
From southerly-exposed slopes (though the vines are orientated east), the 2021 Savigny-lès-Beaune Les Lavières 1er Cru has a simple but fairly perfumed nose with mulberry, cranberry and hints of brown spice. The palate is medium-bodied with chalky tannins. The 2021 is harmonious with a mixture of red plum, white pepper and thyme towards the finish. What a lovely Savigny-les-Beaune. Drink 2024-2034.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 88-91
50% whole bunch vinification. Now racked for bottling in November. Darkish purple. Why does the first sniff remind me of Bordeaux? Just a fleeting thought before the real bouquet starts to come out. Rich cherry with a blacker edge, while Claude suggests violets. Still, there is something slightly green underneath, adding a mild astringency. A little more weight than Fourneaux, medium persistence. Drink from 2025-2028.
2021 Chambolle Musigny Benjamin Leroux
£456.00 In Bond £566.44 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The source of the fruit for this cuvée is a little different in 2021. Usually, the base of the wine comes from one of the village’s highest vineyards, Les Veroilles, which experienced serious frost, so this year the core of the fruit comes from the lower vineyards of Les Athets which were less affected. Deep cherry colour, aromas of boysenberry and freshly picked raspberry. Wonderfully refined and pure, with a great clarity of red fruit flavours.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 89-91
The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Village comes from the top and bottom of the slope. It has a bright nose with raspberry and cranberry fruit, fine definition and good vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with judicious use of whole bunches. It has a gentle grip with quite a peppery finish. This is promising.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 88-90
From up and down slope, Véroilles and Les Athets, more the latter this year. Medium colour, rich strawberry notes, though not much whole bunch, jammier fruit on the palate, with an agreeable finish of medium length. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Pommard Benjamin Leroux
£300.00 In Bond £379.24 Inc VAT2021 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Les Hauts Jarrons Benjamin Leroux
£240.00 In Bond £307.24 Inc VAT-
Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 89-91
Just finished its malolactic, last week. Despite that, there is a lovely perfume to this 2021 Haut Jarrons, pure and clean. Pure raspberry on the palate, then the coolness, and a touch of fresh oak to finish. Still finding its way, but with promise Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Vougeot Clos du Village Benjamin Leroux
£309.00 In Bond £390.04 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This is such a lovely lieu-dit on the border of Chambolle Musigny. There are just 3 hectares of village wine in Vougeot, of which Clos du Village is one, sitting next door to Clos de Vougeot and below Chambolle Les Amoureuses! In 2021, Ben actually has more wine as he took the complete vineyard this year! Damson and sloes, this gives the perfect mix between generous plush fruit and a direct sweet intensity. There is a feeling of restrained power and, this is so much more than a simple village wine. Lovely.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 89-91
The 2021 Vougeot Clos de Village, which is mostly de-stemmed, has a slightly subdued bouquet compared to some of the other cuvées. The palate is medium-bodied with red cherry and strawberry fruit and fine tannins. It's more vivacious on the finish compared to the nose, which I suspect will open with time. Give it a couple of years in bottle.
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Matthew Jukes, January 2023, Score: 17.5
Seamless, accurate, and beautifully resonant, this is a relatively straightforward wine, but it is generous and silky, and while it will drink young, it will hold well, too. It is £65, so it is a relative bargain in the greater scheme of things!
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 88-90
No whole bunches were used in this cuvée. A pretty and palish crimson red. Discreet on nose and palate, not one of the livelier examples, and while there is a fine sensual finish, I did not quite find the usual éclat associated over the years with the Clos du Village.
