En Primeur | Domaine Drouhin Laroze
Founded in 1850, this 12 hectare domaine is now run by the fifth and sixth generations: parents Christine and Philippe, and children Caroline and Nicolas. They have an embarrassment of riches within their armoury of four 1ers Crus and six exceptional Grands Crus, culminating with plots of both Clos de Bèze and Le Musigny. They also boast one of the finest two storey cellars in the Côte d’Or, built by members of the Prussian military on their way back from the Hundred Years War, with ideal conditions maintaining perfect temperatures for Philippe’s preferred two-year élevage in cask.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin Dix Climats Drouhin Laroze
£270.00 In Bond £340.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
4 hectares of village Gevrey Chambertin in ten different locations is a sizeable parcel and, as a result, this cuvée is a superb example of this famous Côte de Nuits appellation. Just 15% whole bunches this year and 30% new oak, this has a shining bright purple colour. Very pleasing blackberry and apple crumble scent. A relaxed and generous style, full with a generously rich sensation, rounded tannins and striking appeal on the finish.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 87-89
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Dix Climats is matured with 15% whole bunches, less than before, with 30% new oak. This is fragrant and alluring on the nose, well-defined with subtle peony and rose petal scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, slightly confit-like red fruit with a light but sweet finish. Enjoy this over the next decade. Drink 2024-2034.
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Burghound, January 2023, Score: 87-89
Somber if fresh aromas include those of plum, dark currant, newly turned earth and a whiff of the sauvage. The rich, generously proportioned and velvet-textured flavors contrast somewhat with the mildly tangy finish that is shaped by bright acidity. Note that there is a reasonably chance that the tanginess will gradually subside with a few years of aging. Drink 2026+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 90-92
15% whole bunch vinification. The colour is noticeably more robust than the preceding wines, as too is the bouquet, backed a little by new oak (30%) but showing a good intensity of robust raspberry fruit on the nose, which carries through across the palate. This has a good balance between fruit and structure. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin En Combes Drouhin Laroze
£336.00 In Bond £419.27 Inc VAT-
Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 85-87
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin En Combe comes from a parcel in the middle of the village that has been bottled for the first time. With 15% whole bunches, it has a smear of dark chocolate on the nose that slightly obscures the terroir expression at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet entry, but the 30% new oak just feels a bit excessive on the finish. Drink 2024-2029
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Burghound, January 2023, Score: 87-89
A slightly more elegant nose combines both red and blue pinot fruit along with plenty of earth nuances that are also reflected by the precise and vibrant if less rich flavors that also display a touch of tanginess on the lightly austere finale. Here too my projected range offers the benefit of the doubt that the tanginess will eventually diminish. Drink 2027+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 90-92
A solid deep purple. This may show the best balance of the three village Gevreys with a little more weight than En Champs and both greater finesse and persistence. The fruit, which comes from the old vine section of their 2 hectares, hides the oak well. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Au Closeau Drouhin Laroze
£435.00 In Bond £538.07 Inc VAT-
Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 88-90
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Au Closeau 1er Cru underwent some green harvest to improve the grape maturity. It has a light but focused nose - a mélange of red and black fruit with touches of sous-bois. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well balanced with nicely judged acidity. Modest length, this is a well-crafted Gevrey for more early drinking. Drink 2024-2034
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Burghound, January 2023, Score: 88-91
A markedly earthier nose offers up notes of dark berries cut with humus and forest floor wisps. The rich and relatively full-bodied flavors possess a caressing mid-palate and good energy that carries over to the delicious and sneaky long finish that is shaped by herb-tinged acidity. Drink 2028
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 90-92
15% whole bunch vinification and 60% new wood. They always have to do a green harvest here because the pinot selection can be over productive. Medium crimson colour, with quite a light bouquet. A little sucrosity to the strawberry fruit. The 2021 Au Closeau is attractive, but perhaps lacks the extra concentration of a main line 1er Cru. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£273.00 In Bond £338.32 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
An abundance of succulent berry fruits, this is silky and rich, flavours of sloes and huckleberry. Voluptuous generosity, such a distinctive character of the wines of Chambolle, there is an easy richness and ample finish.
2021 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£365.00 In Bond £454.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
An abundance of succulent berry fruits, this is silky and rich, flavours of sloes and huckleberry. Voluptuous generosity, such a distinctive character of the wines of Chambolle, there is an easy richness and ample finish.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux Maison Roche de Bellene
£495.00 In Bond £610.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The most northerly of Gevrey Chambertin’s Premiers Crus, this is an unctuously rich style of Gevrey. Flavours of tayberry and red cherry. A rewarding succulence, the tannins have a plumpness to them. Full and very good length.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines Maison Roche de Bellene
£450.00 In Bond £556.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A vineyard appreciated by the Benedictine monks for many centuries, famed before the French Revolution for its bold, rich wines. Vanilla and mocha bouquet, with a firm gravelly texture. There is a rich fullness to the wine, finishing with dark olive and cumin spice.
2021 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Les Pruliers Maison Roche de Bellene
£237.00 In Bond £295.12 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A Premier Cru south of the town of Nuits St Georges with soils rich in clay so tends to create a more muscular style than the more northerly vineyards. Dense dark cherry colour, liquorice and dark toffee scent, this is a tight and intense wine, with spice and new leather. Savoury and rich on the finish, with smoky new oak sweetness.
2021 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses Maison Roche de Bellene
£195.00 In Bond £250.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A hugely respected Premier Cru in Savigny sitting above Pernand Ile de Vergelesses. The sandy marl soils deliver a generously rich wine. Characters of sloes and damson, this is a plump and full wine. The tannins provide an earthy texture, layered and full, with attractively sweet wild bramble fruits on the finish.
2021 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses Maison Roche de Bellene
£170.00 In Bond £214.72 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A hugely respected Premier Cru in Savigny sitting above Pernand Ile de Vergelesses. The sandy marl soils deliver a generously rich wine. Characters of sloes and damson, this is a plump and full wine. The tannins provide an earthy texture, layered and full, with attractively sweet wild bramble fruits on the finish.
2021 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesses Maison Roche de Bellene
£210.00 In Bond £268.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A hugely respected Premier Cru in Savigny sitting above Pernand Ile de Vergelesses. The sandy marl soils deliver a generously rich wine. Characters of sloes and damson, this is a plump and full wine. The tannins provide an earthy texture, layered and full, with attractively sweet wild bramble fruits on the finish.
2021 Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru Hommage à Jean Ferté Domaine de Bellene
£195.00 In Bond £250.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Nicolas named this cuvée after his great uncle who was the driving force behind the family purchase of Domaine de la Pousse d’Or. From 60-year-old vines, there is a rich vanilla and mocha perfume. This is a structured wine, with muscle and power. Excellent depth and the ripe tannins on the finish give a feeling of composed complexity. Excellent wine.
2021 Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£350.00 In Bond £436.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Smoky sous-bois autumnal aromatics. A direct style, with great clarity of red fruits, the tannins are tightly entwined, semi-coiled spring-like. Brilliantly fresh, direct and mineral ahead of the sweet juicy berry flavours on the finish.
2021 Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£273.00 In Bond £338.32 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Smoky sous-bois autumnal aromatics. A direct style, with great clarity of red fruits, the tannins are tightly entwined, semi-coiled spring-like. Brilliantly fresh, direct and mineral ahead of the sweet juicy berry flavours on the finish.
2021 Vosne Romanée Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£365.00 In Bond £454.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Smoky sous-bois autumnal aromatics. A direct style, with great clarity of red fruits, the tannins are tightly entwined, semi-coiled spring-like. Brilliantly fresh, direct and mineral ahead of the sweet juicy berry flavours on the finish.
2021 Volnay Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£165.00 In Bond £214.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A flagship wine for Nicolas as a representation of his home village where he grew up. Full of alpine fruit scent, a luscious and juicy wine, with round gentle tannins. Supple and harmonious, this has gracious appeal. A magnificent example of the charms of Volnay.
2021 Volnay Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£150.00 In Bond £190.72 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A flagship wine for Nicolas as a representation of his home village where he grew up. Full of alpine fruit scent, a luscious and juicy wine, with round gentle tannins. Supple and harmonious, this has gracious appeal. A magnificent example of the charms of Volnay.
2021 Griotte Chambertin Grand Cru Maison Roche de Bellene
£1,850.00 In Bond £2,236.07 Inc VAT2021 Mercurey Clos des Touches Tupinier-Bautista
£250.00 In Bond £332.14 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A relatively new cuvée, these grapes having historically been blended into the Vieilles Vignes. Manu is now keen to show the hamlet’s character. Savoury aromas, plums and huckleberry. With the characteristic house style of rich, plump fruit, the tannins are supple and sweet. Very long, with a mouth-watering freshness at the end.
2021 Mercurey Vieilles Vignes Tupinier-Bautista
£225.00 In Bond £302.14 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
From vines planted in the 60s and 70s, this is a super representation of the appellation of Mercurey. Shining purple colour, layered autumnal bramble fruits. A full, rich and mouthcoating style. The tannins are broad and fine, and it finishes juicy and sweet.
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Matthew Jukes, January 2023, Score: 17
While I like Tupinier-Bautista’s white (above), I did not expect to fall for the entry-level red, too. With decent juiciness and nicely-balanced acidity, this is a worthy everyday drinker with a keen price tag and genuine style.
2021 Marsannay Le Boivin Ch de Marsannay
£185.00 In Bond £238.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
From 0.5 hectares in the northern sector of the appellation with a strong clay and chalk composition. Sylvain was so confident in the quality of the fruit that he used 50% whole bunches during the vinification, which contributes to the very delicate acidity in this 2021. Cherry fruits and soft tannins in an easy, accessible style.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-89
70% whole bunch vinification. Nonetheless, a full purple colour, with a slight carbonic feel but not peppery on the nose, though that character appears at the back of the palate. Still quite backward and will doubtless knit together more later. Drink from 2024-2027.
2021 Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes Les Chaillots Domaine Truchetet
£150.00 In Bond £196.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
From a selection of 60-year-old vines, this is a 1 hectare vineyard on a mix of limestone and clay. The fruit is handled very gently with no pigeage, and the wine is aged in casks, 25% of which are new oak. A wine with great Pinot expression, loganberry and brambles. Good richness resulting from a later picking date, 25th September, and this has charming persistence.
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Jancis Robinson, January 2023, Score: 16
Cask sample. Pure fruit. Quite an impact on the palate. With some minerality and definite length. Drink 2025 – 2032
2021 Beaune 1er Cru Les Cents Vignes Domaine Rapet Père et Fils
£220.00 In Bond £280.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Bright red cherry colour, this has a sweetness of red fruits, raspberry and strawberry. Tremendous perfume, all about elegance, this will give early drinking pleasure. The tannins have a lightness of touch giving the wine an easy approachability.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 88-90
Old vines. Very similar colour. The bouquet is a little sturdier than the Clos du Roi, and there are peppery notes at the finish. Solid and sound but I find the Clos du Roi more charming. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes François Legros
£240.00 In Bond £304.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The very old vines in this parcel (70 years) produce small and intense berries. This results in layers of black cherry and blackberry. The full concentrated intensity sits comfortably within a gracious amplitude true to the appellation. A very pretty style.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 90-92
The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Vieilles Vignes comes from 60-year-old vines. It offers undergrowth-infused dark berry fruit, hints of star anis emerge with time, open and expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with very supple tannins, quite citric thanks to the silver bead of acidity, touches of hoisin towards the sustained finish. Excellent. Drink 2024-2040.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 88-90
Pretty mid purple colour. Another slightly reductive nose though with good fruit generosity behind and a pleasing floral touch. This has been racked twice to clear the reduction. It now offers a delicious sweet fruit finish, quite persistent. Drink from 2025-2028.
2021 Côte de Nuits Villages Les Bonnemaines Domaine Truchetet
£230.00 In Bond £292.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
Half a hectare of superbly positioned vines just the other side of the road below the famous Clos de la Maréchale which in a good year gives them five barrels of exquisite wine. Aromas of blueberry and peony, with an appealing herbal edge. This has depth and vigour showing the benefits of mature vines all planted in 1963. A wine which belies its classification.
2021 Côte de Nuits Villages Domaine Truchetet
£220.00 In Bond £280.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The limestone soil and 100% destemmed fruit make for a radiant and bright wine. Shining violet colour, hints of tayberry and lavender scent, with a chalky minerality. So full of energy and life, with a fine purity. Very fine.
2021 Corton Grand Cru Domaine Rapet Père et Fils
£450.00 In Bond £556.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The Rapet Corton comes from Pinot Noir in two different parcels on the Aloxe Corton side of the hill. The vines here are planted on red iron soil providing substance and backbone to the naturally harmonious style of wine for which Vincent strives. Brick red colour, this is darker fruit in nature, with characters of Morello cherry and cassis. It has a sensual sweetness, with a firm gritty tannic core.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Les Champeaux Tortochot
£395.00 In Bond £490.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A well-positioned Premier Cru on the northerly border of the commune alongside Brochon. Fruity in style, a combination of fresh cherry and nutmeg. A very open and charming wine, with red fruits. The tannins are gentle and sweet with a powdery edge to them. This is subtle and yet deceivingly full, with great length.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin Champerrier Tortochot
£280.00 In Bond £352.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
From a selection of 60-year-old vines within the village this is a very charming example of village Gevrey. The bright red colour compliments the red currant and cherry personality. Although only a small proportion, the character of whole bunch wild strawberry is present. Excellent depth, with subtle rounded tannins on the mid-palate and a lively salinity at the end.
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Neal Martin, November 2022, Score: 90-92
The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru has another quite "airy" but well-defined nose: red cherries and crushed strawberry, touches of crushed stone and gravel. The palate is well balanced with fine-boned tannins - what I appreciate here is the tension and edge towards the finish. Worth seeking out. Drink 2024-2036
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Jancis Robinson, January 2023, Score: 16.5
Some sweetness and some delicacy – what's not to like?! Real energy here. Very forward. Very long. I could enjoy this tonight – almost worryingly so. Drink 2024 – 2036
2021 Gevrey Chambertin Morgan Truchetet
£330.00 In Bond £412.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, January 2023
Coming from a field called Le Seuvrées bordering Morey St Denis, it makes a wine of great charm and grace. Tayberry and loganberry fruits, sweet and generous, the tannins are silky and round with a touch of spiced toasted oak at the end.
