En Primeur | Ch de Marsannay
This impressive estate, like Château de Meursault, is owned by Olivier Halley and is one of five new domaines we are introducing this vintage. It is a substantial property, comprising 40 hectares, of which 28 are in Marsannay and the remainder are spread throughout prime locations in the Côte de Nuits and as far south as Puligny Montrachet. With the guidance of Stéphane Follin-Arbelet of Château de Meursault, new technical director Sylvain Pabiot has been implementing exciting changes at the property. They are currently in the process of converting to organic vineyard management and Sylvain has instigated a more delicate approach in the winery for the Pinots.
2021 Marsannay Le Boivin Ch de Marsannay
£185.00 In Bond £238.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
From 0.5 hectares in the northern sector of the appellation with a strong clay and chalk composition. Sylvain was so confident in the quality of the fruit that he used 50% whole bunches during the vinification, which contributes to the very delicate acidity in this 2021. Cherry fruits and soft tannins in an easy, accessible style.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-89
70% whole bunch vinification. Nonetheless, a full purple colour, with a slight carbonic feel but not peppery on the nose, though that character appears at the back of the palate. Still quite backward and will doubtless knit together more later. Drink from 2024-2027.
2021 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Bel Air Ch de Marsannay
£515.00 In Bond £634.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This is a high-class Premier Cru: its lower slopes fall within Grand Cru Echézeaux and the higher slopes have marginal amounts of soil so can express vivid purity. The domaine’s parcel is in a slightly warmer location within the slopes and so this 2021 has a degree of richness to it. Dark Moroccan spice, bramble fruits, rounded full and long.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 91-93
A lovely glowing light purple colour. One toasty new barrel alongside twice that in older wood. A complex nose as the wood settles down, more toast, less vanilla. Fills the mouth really well, with a little spike of acidity. Some tannins but the fruit covers it all. Drink from 2026-2031.
2021 Marsannay Blanc Ch de Marsannay
£165.00 In Bond £214.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
2.5 hectares of superbly positioned Chardonnay in the very middle of the slopes. Fresh pear and quince bouquet. Succulent and rich, with flavours of kumquat and marzipan and an attractive soft, silky finish.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-90
Mid yellow with still a greenish tint. The nose is fuller rather than finer, but there is a crisper return on the palate and a more definite character. Finishes very well with good tension. Drink from 2024-2026.
2021 Puligny Montrachet Cuvée de Maizière Ch de Marsannay
£370.00 In Bond £460.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A classically styled Puligny from 0.5 hectares on the lower slopes of the appellation. A shimmering lime-tinged colour, with lively fresh citrus fruits, fresh apples and lemon sherbet. This has drive and a limestone mineral poise. Refined, pure and graceful, with a long, charming finish.
2021 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru Ch de Marsannay
£555.00 In Bond £674.04 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Aged in 100% new oak, this is full of sweet, spiced vanilla. Black forest fruits with poised structured tannins. This is a wine with tremendous Grand Cru presence and weight and a long continuous finish.
2021 Vosne Romanée 1er Cru En Orveaux Ch de Marsannay
£425.00 In Bond £518.04 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This is a high-class Premier Cru: its lower slopes fall within Grand Cru Echézeaux and the higher slopes have marginal amounts of soil so can express vivid purity. The domaine’s parcel is in a slightly warmer location within the slopes and so this 2021 has a degree of richness to it. Dark Moroccan spice, bramble fruits, rounded full and long.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 92-94
Five years now of horse ploughing. Medium purple, beautiful bouquet, perfect ripeness of the grapes judging from this fruit. Quite tight on the palate with the fruit and the tannic structure not yet fully integrated – but they clearly will and the persistence of attractive suave red berry fruit at the finish promises very well. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted: November 2022