The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is another epic wine. It is remarkably textured and vivid for a young Soldera, with endless layers of fruit. The wine literally explodes on the palate with sweet hard candy, expressive red fruits, licorice, tobacco and mint. Everything is held wonderfully in place by the silkiest of tannins. From start to finish this is a towering effort. The 2004 Riserva is so beautiful it can be enjoyed with no guilt whatsoever today. Readers should note there are three lots of the Riserva in 2004. This is Lot F77, which is made from Intistieti, the vineyard that has yielded virtually all of Soldera’s most legendary bottles. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034.
Located southwest of Chianti, Montalcino came into its own in the late 1880s when local producer,Biondi-Santi, discovered a Sangiovese clone in his vineyard that was darker in colour than the rest. Its colour, however, was not its only attribute. It produced a wine with notable body, structure and length. He named it ‘brunello' meaning little dark one.This grape's genetic properties along with Montalcino's relatively temperate climate combine tocreate a wine stylistically different to that of more northerly Chianti. They are usually releasedapproximately 5 years after the vintage following 2 to 4 years ageing in wood. The denomination ofRiserva indicates a wine usually produced with more concentrated grapes than the traditional cuvéeand requires a minimum of one additional year of ageing.Today, Montalcino has become one of the most sought after appellations in the Tuscan region.