2022 - Domaine de L'Ile Porquerolles Côtes de Provence Blanc - 6x75cl

Matthew Jukes, April 2023, Score: 18.5

Made from 100% Rolle, this is one of the most enchanting incarnations of this grape variety I have tasted. There is something glossy and shimmering about both of these 2022s, and unlike the edgy 2021 vintage wines, there is a precocity and silkiness here that seems to insist that you drink the wines immediately and with gusto. I tasted it at 10 am and found myself checking my watch as the desire to swallow a couple of mouthfuls almost overcame me. There is imperceptibly more richness here, thanks to the hot, dry weather, and the harvest took place early, between the 17th and 20th of August. While the palate is pure and gossamer-smooth, there are thrilling reference points in this wine’s flavour that point to its precise origins. The crisp acidity balances the alert, welcoming fruit and the pear and white peach fruit flavours are cut with hints of eucalyptus, lashings of ozone freshness and discreet moments of pine resin. The result is a wine that appears sculpted and statuesque instead of liquid and languid. There is no interference from any oak, allowing the cadence of flavour on the palate to keep up a brisk trot, refreshing the taste buds as it goes. While it was a warm vintage, there is plenty of soil and airborne moisture here, so there is a sense of atomiser freshness, which spritzes the palate, cooling the whole experience and bringing even more freshness to the whole. I always adore the white wine from this property, but in 2022 it moved on a couple of steps in overall elegance and poise, and I cannot think of a more perfect wine for a balmy summer’s evening. Just make sure you secure your stock now!