- 2022 - 2036
- Case size
- Available Now
Jancis Robinson, November 2021,
Fans of apple pie will be delighted by the nose of the Rausch Kabinett, as it delivers aromas of apple and lemon with sugar icing. On the palate things become a little more exotic with sweet grapefruit and bitter orange, well complemented by lemony acidity. A fine spice not unlike vanilla adorns an exhilarating finish. Drink 2021-2030.
David Schildknecht, November 2021,
This displays tropical elements of mango and papaya, but also Saar-typical cherry and almond, as well as offsetting limey citricity, cherry pit piquancy and cooling mintiness. Violet-like floral perfume adds allure. The polished, subtly creamy palate epitomizes Kabinett delicacy, notwithstanding the overall impression of high ripeness. (And the raw materials here were in fact, by Oechsle standards, considerably less ripe than those that have informed many a recent Zilliken Kabinett.) The finish is even longer and no less vibrant than that of the two Kabinetts that preceded it in the Zillikens’ 2020 line up. There is already a hint of Rausch-typical smokiness, and mineral diversity may well emerge as the wine matures, which it is almost certain to do at a slow pace. Incidentally, the parcel that informed the memorable 2018 Auf der Rausch Grosses Gewächs also contributed to this Kabinett. Drink 2021-2038.
The Zilliken estate is situated on the Saar, a tributary of the Mosel and one of Germany’s coolest wine regions. Zilliken can trace its winemaking history back to 1742. The original cellar was destroyed in a heavy bombing raid in 1944 but the family acquired a new cellar on Heckingstrasse in 1950, which has remained the beating heart of the winery ever since. Today, it is in the capable hands of eleventh generation, Dorothee Zilliken. Their most prestigious holdings are located in the Saarburger Rausch but they also have a hectare in Ockfen Bockstein. The sole focus here is on Riesling and yields are strictly controlled to 50hl/ha. The winemaking policy is simple: cool, slow fermentations in 60–70-year-old untoasted German oak Fuder in the deepest, coolest and darkest cellars in all the Saar, three stories below ground. Graceful and seemingly weightless, these are some of the most mesmerising Rieslings in all the Mosel.
The Mosel's terroir is exceptional, composed primarily of grey-blue and red slate that climb up totremendously steep cliffs - the steepest vineyards in the world to be exact. Due to the Middle Mosel's lack of soil paired with its incredibly good drainage, most of the vines are not graftedonto American rootstocks as phylloxera cannot survive. As a result, the vines grow exceptionally slowly creating wines that tend to be wonderfully pure, tender and focused.