This is ripe, explosive, spicy and sexy with wonderfully perfumed black fruit aromas that are followed by intense, powerful and sappy medium plus weight flavors blessed with a solidly tannic spine and excellent length. After having gone through a lengthy period of being almost completely shut down, it has regained the form that it originally displayed from cask and should continue to reward patience for those fortunate enough to have bottles in their cellars. Drink: try 2014+.
1999 Vosne-Romanée “Cros Parantoux”: (40 year old vines). The Méo Cros Parantoux is often very good though it rarely achieves the heights expected of it but this is clearly not the case with the 99. Massively proportioned and oozing grand cru power and finesse. The Vosne spice is unbelievably seductive yet this is no simple low cut dress as the complexity and length keep coming in wave after wave but the defining aspect of this wine is the incredible persistence. I could taste this wine even after the Richebourg. A monumental effort.
When Jean-Nicolas Méo arrived in 1989 he had very big shoes to fill. Henri Jayer, arguably Burgundy’s preeminent vigneron, had managed the domaine for the previous four decades under a share-cropping agreement with the Méo family. Since then Jean-Nicolas has more than met the challenge. Following meticulous viticultural and winemaking practices he creates wonderful wines with fine levels of concentration, and today, almost three decades since his ascension, it ranks in the upper echelons of the Burgundy firmament. The majority of wines are red, ranging from Bougogne Rouge up to their ultra-famous Cros Parantoux and outstanding Richebourg. But Jean-Nicolas also makes a miniscule production of white wine. He began planting the Chardonnay for his Clos St. Philibert on steep slopes overlooking Nuit St. Georges over 25 years ago from carefully selected Chardonnay clones. Domaine Méo-Camuzet has expanded its line of 'vins de négoce' in recent years. These wines are bottled under the 'Méo-Camuzet Frères et Soeurs' label.
The vineyards of the modest village of Vosne Romanée are arguably the most sought after in the Côte d'Or. It is host to excellent Village and Premier Cru wines, but it is its most famous Grand Crusthat truly stand out: Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, Richebourg, Grands Echézeaux, Echézeaux, Romanée St. Vivant and La Romanée as well as Cros Parentoux, a Premier Cru vineyard which attracts Grand Cru attention (and prices). Vosne-Romanée can be remarkably robust and powerful, yet be charming and fleshy giving it one of the most diverse styles of the region.