En Primeur | Domaine Comte Armand
The 5.23-hectare monopole of Clos des Épeneaux has been in the Comte Armand family since 1828 and, as Pommard’s most celebrated vineyard, it arguably just missed out on Grand Cru status. In the extremely capable hands of Paul Zanetti this domaine is now fully biodynamic. Over the past 25 years the family have carefully expanded their vineyard holdings in the locality. Today they make a wonderful representation of the Côte de Beaune, portraying a pinnacle of quality for the appellations it represents.
2022 Bourgogne Aligoté Comte Armand
£110.00 In Bond £151.24 Inc VAT (£25.20 Per Bottle)-
Goedhuis, December 2023
Recent vintages in Burgundy represent a new era for this once overlooked grape variety. Climatic change has been its saviour, and its extraordinary individuality means many growers are encouraged to plant a few rows in vineyards that were once the preserve of chardonnay in the Côte de Beaune. The Comte Armand Aligoté shows off its qualities to great effect. Vinified 50% in stainless steel and 50% barrel, it combines a perfume of white fruits with a weight of yellow fruits. A glycerol like volume, richly layered with mouth-watering uplift of flavours on the finish.
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Neal Martin, January 2024, Score: 88-90
The 2022 Bourgogne Aligoté was picked two weeks after the main harvest and racked just before the 2023 picking. It has quite a primal bouquet with grapefruit and Conference pear, gaining delineation in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with a lovely sense of "rondeur," slightly lower in acidity than last year but with commendable purity on the finish. Lovely. Drinking Window: 2024-2030.
2022 Auxey Duresses Comte Armand
£155.00 In Bond £205.24 Inc VAT (£34.20 Per Bottle)-
Goedhuis, December 2023
The northerly exposed vineyards of Auxey Duresses, sitting directly behind Meursault, are fast gaining recognition for producing wines with a charming representation of Pinot Noir. The berry fruit characters of blueberry and loganberry are a little darker than some years, showing the warmth of the season. The rewarding sweet spice finish and richness of fruit defies its village appellational status. Perfect for youthful drinking.
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Neal Martin, January 2024, Score: 87-89
The 2022 Auxey-Duresses Village has a backwards bouquet that needs a little more fruit intensity but feels fresh. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, dark berry fruit and a touch of spice. It’s quite "solid" toward the finish, so afford it a couple of years in bottle. Drinking Window: 2026-2036.
2022 Volnay Comte Armand
£240.00 In Bond £307.24 Inc VAT (£51.20 Per Bottle)-
Goedhuis, December 2023
This wine comes from two different locations in the appellation: Les Grands Champs which provides finesse and elegance, and Les Famines, giving body and power. A sweet fragrance of summer tayberry and raspberry, this is a fuller and more muscular style of Volnay. Spiced, savoury notes, firm in structure, with a robust finish.
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Neal Martin, January 2024, Score: 89-91
The 2022 Volnay Village, which comes from the lieux-dits of Les Grands Champs and Les Famines, has a perfumed and floral bouquet of pressed iris and violet infusing the black cherry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, not velvety, but it has a pleasing smoothness, slightly savory towards the finish at the moment. Fine. Drinking Window: 89-91.
2022 Auxey Duresses 1er Cru Comte Armand
£260.00 In Bond £331.24 Inc VAT (£55.20 Per Bottle)-
Goedhuis, December 2023
With three very small Premier Cru parcels, Les Bretarins, Les Bas des Duresses and Climat du Val, Paul thinks it best to blend them together to make one single cuvée as a complete expression of Auxey Premier Cru. Smokey dark bilberry characters leap from the glass, with a sweet ripe fruit and subtle, sandy tannins. The oaked vanilla and spice finish balances perfectly with the tension on the finish, contributing to its overall complexity and appeal.
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Neal Martin, January 2024, Score: 89-91
The 2022 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet with brambly black fruit, wild strawberry and a touch of white pepper. This is much more complex than the Village Cru. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly finer tannins than the Village Cru, still quite structured, which is why Paul Zanetti told me he would do a longer barrel aging to soften the texture. Promising, but be patient. Drinking Window: 2027-2037.
