En Primeur | Domaine Charles Audoin
Rugby-loving Cyril is the 5th generation of Audoins in the commune of Marsannay, the Côte de Nuits’ most northerly appellation covering 400 hectares. Today Marsannay is rightly gaining the recognition it deserves as a fine source of high-quality red wines, not least thanks to Cyril’s efforts, amongst others. Indeed, the commune has 14 lieux-dits which have been proposed to the INAO for a long overdue upgrade to 1er Cru status. Whilst this might not be immediate, it reflects the respect that Marsannay and its best vineyards are rightly held in today.
2021 Chablis Denis Pommier
£95.00 In Bond £130.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
100% vinification in stainless steel tank. Crackling, bright and pure, with soft charming white stone fruits, it has a graceful easy flow. Very accessible and so very harmonious. Lovely!
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 89
There is slightly better aromatic complexity to the cool and admirably pure aromas of green apple, lemon-lime, iodine and ocean spray. The rich and slightly more concentrated medium-bodied flavors possess a bit more refinement on the lingering, balanced and refreshing finale. Worth checking out. Drink 2026+
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Jancis Robinson, January 2023, Score: 16
Creditable Chablis nose with already sufficient fruit weight to enjoy. This is fun and pure! Drink 2023 – 2027
2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir Elodie Roy
£105.00 In Bond £142.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This is a fine parcel of Pinot Noir, planted in 1963. The vines lie on the edge of the village on clay soil. They have a more northerly exposure, enjoying the sunshine from around 9 am. Delicious characteristics of newly picked raspberry, there is a smattering of oaked spice, a sleekness of tender tannins and fine purity on the finish. Delightful.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 88
The 2021 Bourgogne Pinot Noir is completely de-stemmed and from the same terroir as the Aligoté on deep clay soils. It offers fragrant red cherry and strawberry fruit, showing more fruité than the Hautes-Côtes. The palate is well balanced with nicely assimilated new oak (20%). Harmonious with powdery tannins, tart red fruit with a minerally finish that might lack a bit of length, but compensates with ample freshness.
2021 Chablis Domaine William Fèvre
£110.00 In Bond £148.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A benchmark wine reflecting the classic characteristics of village Chablis. William Fèvre owns 47 hectares over 40 different sites within the appellation. A maximum of 10% of the blend is barrel fermented, ensuring the steely brightness of Chablis shines through. Lemon and lime tinge in colour.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 88-91
Notes of mineral reduction and quinine add breadth to the aromas of green apple, lemon-lime and discreet floral nuances. There is slightly better density to the attractively textured medium-bodied flavors that are even more saline-inflected on the balanced, dry and lingering finale. A quality Chablis villages. Drink 2025+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-89
A little more depth of colour, and a slightly richer style of fruit, including some fresh plums. 7-8% wood for vinification. More aquiline on the palate though retains its rounder style, with good acidity however which pulls the finish out rather further. Drink from 2024-2027.
2021 Bourgogne Côte d’Or Blanc Cuvée des Forgets Patrick Javillier
£110.00 In Bond £148.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This cuvée from vineyards on the Volnay side of the village represents a Bourgogne Blanc very true to Meursault. A plump, creamy expressive nose, with a waft of smoky bacon. Gloriously broad, with a warm generosity, ample and exuberant.
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Matthew Jukes, January 2023, Score: 17
This is a decent effort, and as Javillier Meursaults climb in price (and look very good in 2021), this £25 wine keeps its feet on the ground, and while there is welcome flesh, it still shows an enticing trail of acidity which needs to be respected. Classy and controlled, but give it a year.
2021 Chablis Billaud-Simon
£116.00 In Bond £155.27 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Light straw colour, this is a bright, pure and racy example of the appellation. Freshly squeezed limes and stone fruits, there are floral notes of jasmine and chamomile on the palate. Gentle and easy with approachable charm.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 88-91
2021 Chablis: (from 11 parcels scattered around Chablis, the most notable of which are in Les Pargues). A slightly riper nose features notes of pear, apple and just enough Chablis character to be persuasive, all of which is trimmed in subtle wood influence. There is a bit more volume and richness to the delicious medium-weight flavors that display fine length on the highly vibrant and chiseled finale. This needs to develop more depth though that should reasonably occur. Drink 2025+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 86-88
To bottle before the harvest. Pale colour, very grapey but with some depth and structure. Mostly tank, a mix of domaine with some purchases. Zesty, some citrus, definite minerals with some marine notes, and enough persistence. Drink from 2024-2026.
2021 Bourgogne Rouge Tollot-Beaut
£117.00 In Bond £156.47 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Light red colour, a supple and easy style. Redcurrant and plums, with soft smooth tannins. Plenty of charm and delightfully approachable.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 17
Brilliant balance and terrific value, there is so much here that appeals, and Tollot-Beaut is one of only a handful of Domaines that never lets you down, regardless of the vintage.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-88
Medium to light crimson. A beautiful pure pinot fruit. Really classy on the palate, with the domaine’s signature oak at the back. Perfect acid balance. Looking forward to seeing this in bottle. Drink from 2024-2026.
2021 Bourgogne Blanc Tollot-Beaut
£117.00 In Bond £156.47 Inc VAT-
Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-88
In tank. A brisk mid yellow with a light green tint. Lots of energy on the nose, generous fruit through the middle, oak inflected ripe greengage, good acidity and some persistence. Very nice! Drink from 2023-2026.
2021 Maranges Les Goty Elodie Roy
£120.00 In Bond £160.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A fine lieu-dit with only 200 cases made. Aromatically shy but with a superb richness and depth in the palate. Firmly structured with a long powerful finish.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 88
The 2021 Maranges Le Goty is a small cuvée of 19 hectoliters. Mulberry and wilted rose petals on the nose, quite floral in style. The palate is well balanced with crisp acidity. Quite taut and linear, gaining more weight towards the pastille-like finish. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years. Drink 2024-2030.
2021 Maranges La Rue des Pierres Elodie Roy
£120.00 In Bond £160.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
This is village cuvée comes from lower-lying vineyards bordering the commune of Santenay. The fruit is 100% destalked, allowing its true Pinot characteristics to shine. A mix of cherry and bilberry. A strikingly pleasing style, delicate sweetness of fruit, the tannins are gentle and a gratifyingly spicy finish. Lovely.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 90
The 2021 Maranges La Rue de Pierres, which is de-stemmed with 40% new oak, has an open bouquet with Morello cherries, orange rind and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, fine depth, taut and fresh with a sapid finish. Not long term, but lively and spicy.
2021 Moulin à Vent En Montperay A F Gros
£120.00 In Bond £160.07 Inc VAT2021 Bourgogne Blanc Bruno Colin
£120.00 In Bond £160.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, January 2023
Bruno’s Bourgogne Blanc comes from two parcels: one 40 years old and the other 20 years old. Together, they give a very fine representation of Chardonnay from the lower slopes of the Côte de Beaune. Aged for 10 months in barrel, 20% new oak, this a bright and energetic wine, with flavours of satsuma, peanut butter and hazelnut. Forward in style and very attractive.
2021 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Geantet Pansiot
£130.00 In Bond £172.07 Inc VAT-
Matthew Jukes, January 2023, Score: 17.5
A downright delicious wine. There is superb fruit handling here, and it is wonderfully accurate, with every element in perfect harmony – it is a very rare find in 2021.
2021 Bourgogne Blanc Vieilles Vignes Côte d’Or Jean-Philippe Fichet
£130.00 In Bond £172.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The dominant force in this old vine cuvée of Bourgogne Blanc comes from the Les Palland vineyard close to Puligny planted between 1945 and 1950. The older vines were a little behind some other plots and therefore they were a little less affected by the frosts. Aromas of brioche and roasted nuts, it has a volume and weight punching well above its classification. Zesty and persistent on the finish.
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Matthew Jukes, January 2023, Score: 17
While Fichet’s Merusaults look typically suave and correct, there is some fun to be had here for a low entry price. Crunchy, lifted, refreshing, and with lovely length, this is, once again, a worthy mini-Meursault.
2021 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Rouge A F Gros
£130.00 In Bond £172.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
These vines are at a higher altitude location in the Hautes Côtes above Nuits St Georges. The frost’s impact on 2021 yields is typified with this cuvée; usually production is 35 casks and this year, it is just 5! Brilliant purple colour, a touch of mocha and dark berry. Fresh and lively, with an appealing bright finish.
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Burghound, January 2023, Score: 86-88
Pretty, fresh and cool aromas include those of the essence of various red berries and a whiff of earth. The lilting and almost delicate lighter weight flavors exude a subtle minerality on the delicious, focused and very clean finish. This inviting effort should drink well young. Drink 2023+
2021 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Blanc A F Gros
£135.00 In Bond £178.07 Inc VAT2021 Marsannay Cuvée Marie Ragonneau Charles Audoin
£145.00 In Bond £190.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Named in honour of Cyril’s great grandmother who lost her husband in WW1 but maintained the estate intact to pass on to the next generation. Coming from five different locations, this is a beautiful representation of the village style. Hints of cinnamon, nutmeg and tayberry fruit, the combination of autumnal fruits and light spice gives a sweetness to this wine, making it irresistibly approachable. The most forward in the cellar and quite lovely!
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Burghound, January 2023, Score: 88-91
This is also softly earthy in character with a more layered nose of red and dark berries that are trimmed in crushed leaf hints. Once again there is an appealing texture to the energetic medium weight flavors that possess better volume and notably better length on the mildly rustic, dusty and youthfully austere finale. Drink 2027+
2021 Santenay Rouge 1er Cru Clos Rousseau Justin Girardin
£145.00 In Bond £190.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Sitting on the southern boundary of the appellation, Justin commented that Clos Rousseau’s naturally cooler location encouraged a later budding in 2021, meaning it was less impacted by the frost. Full of cherry and raspberry, with a tinge of oak spice. Delicate purity, with light mineral styled tannins. Very pleasing, this 100% destalked cuvée is a very true example of Southern Côte de Beaune Pinot Noir.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-90
Another fine mid purple colour. The bouquet is a little more floral than its peers, with medium density within the context of the vintage. More energy at the back with fresh strawberry notes as well as raspberry. Drink from 2025-2029.
2021 Bourgogne La Tuféra Etienne Sauzet
£145.00 In Bond £190.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
From vineyards just outside the appellational boundaries of Puligny Montrachet but within the commune of the village. Aromas of fresh yeast, pannacotta and tangerine. A bright and fresh style, with a charming ease and soft graceful finish.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 86-88
The 2021 Bourgogne Blanc has a more pithy nose than its peers, with touches of wild peach and candle wax complementing the malic scents. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, hints of Clementine and sour lemon with fine tension on the simple, yet effective finish. Drink 2023-2028.
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2023, Score: 86-87
Made in barrel and foudres with some purchased grapes. Pale to mid lemon. Some tension on the nose, not much flesh. A little greengage with a slight bitterness, medium length, fills out better at the back. Drink from 2024-2026.
2021 Monthelie Blanc Jean-Philippe Fichet
£145.00 In Bond £190.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, January 2023
This neighbouring village to Meursault is rightly growing in both stature and recognition as a source of fine white Burgundy. The wines are a little less flamboyant than its better known neighbour and can have a vibrant streak of freshness. Jean-Philippe makes a fine example, with lemon and lime flavours, creamy undertones and a flinty mineral side to it on the finish.
2021 Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume Charlene et Laurent Pinson
£148.00 In Bond £193.67 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Historically this fine Premier Cru parcel, sitting by the Grands Crus, was owned by the Pinson family. They exchanged it for an easier-to-access parcel of Mont de Milieu owned by Nathalie and Gilles Fèvre. The Pinson family now buy back the Fourchaume grapes to make this wine. The initial flavours are reminiscent of Cornish vanilla ice cream, with a waft of sea air. It has the characteristic richness of a Grand Cru, combined with a feeling of elegance and gentle grace. The spike of lemon sherbet on the finish provides lift and the finishing touches to a very fine wine.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 89-92
Firm reduction dominates the fruit at present. The combination of an abundance of dry extract and refinement make for a really attractive mouthfeel to the medium weight flavors that really fan out as the finish sits on the palate. If there’s a nit, it’s that this is not quite as energetic as the best of these wines. Overall, while this is certainly pretty, it will need to develop better depth to achieve the top end of my projected range. Drink 2027+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 89-91
Fresh pale lemony, some apples on the nose, ripe rather than green. Reasonably full in body, with the softly rounded cashmere style of this appellation. Some acidity, medium plus length. Drink from 2024-2028.
2021 Chablis 1er Cru La Forêt Pinson Frères
£148.00 In Bond £193.67 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Laurent comments that his parcel of 65 year old vines face east and therefore are in a cooler spot, and so were ideally positioned to cope with the warmer summer conditions. This wine matures in barrels of 3-8 years of age, lending a warm creaminess to lime citrus flavours. A limestone, stony sensation on the palate, with excellent old vine intensity and length.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 90-92
This is also mildly reduced and not showing much save for a trace of citrus character. There is once again very good volume to the delicious, plump and punchy flavors that are not quite as complex though do offer very fine length. Drink 2027+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 90-92
Refused to grow after the frost, but still gave some fruit at the end – 18 hl/ha. Pale yellow, showing a little flesh on the nose, more than fruit concentration. Definite iodine touches. Short of being a grand classic, but an enjoyable wine, finishing agreeably on the saline. Drink from 2024-2028.
2021 Chablis 1er Cru Montmain Pinson Frères
£148.00 In Bond £193.67 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The Pinson’s 64-year-old Montmains vines, adjoin their parcel of La Forêt, and produce a fleshier style of wine than their neighbours, thanks to the mix of clay and chalk-based soils according to Charlène Pinson. With aromatics of honeysuckle, quince and medlar, this is broader in style than many for the vintage, balancing creamy fruit sensations with a thirst-quenching salinity. Always a favourite of ours and a lovely cuvée in 2021.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 90-93
Spicy and floral nuances add breadth to the green apple, iodine and white pepper aromas. The more refined if less powerful flavors exude evident minerality on the markedly, even aggressively, citrus-inflected and bone-dry finale that it shaped by bright acidity. At present I suspect that the citrus character might be too much for some though I would expect it to slowly mitigate. Drink 2028+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 91-93
Light snow with the frost on the left bank was bad news. Very lively bouquet, a little lemony reduction. Plenty of energy here, a light iodine touch, just the right volume of fruit and the oak is well integrated. Promising in its persistence. Drink from 2025-2030.
2021 Chablis 1er Cru Mont de Milieu Pinson Frères
£148.00 In Bond £193.67 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The Domaine’s most important Premier Cru covering just under 5 hectares, with the fruit coming from four different locations and vines aged between 18 and 45 years. The quality of the fruit means that the wine can cope with 100%-barrel ageing and 15% of the fruit is also vinified in cask. A more flamboyant style for the vintage. Smoky cappuccino aromas, with a striking creamy texture, spice and warm toffee. Very good depth and a little more Côte de Beaune in character than some in the cellar. Tremendously appealing.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 91-93
Slightly riper aromas display excellent Chablis typicity on the aromas of mineral reduction, green apple and oyster shell. There is once again very good size and weight to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a succulent, round and generous mouthfeel while exhibiting excellent punch on the stony and austere finale where a touch of wood emerges. This is lovely and worth checking out. Drink 2028+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 90-93
Clear mid yellow, toast and vanilla on the nose, as this wine is fermented in wood. It will integrate but it sticks out a touch at the moment. There is a concentrated saline middle to the wine covered by white fruit. Drink from 2025-2031.
2021 Volnay Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£150.00 In Bond £190.72 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A flagship wine for Nicolas as a representation of his home village where he grew up. Full of alpine fruit scent, a luscious and juicy wine, with round gentle tannins. Supple and harmonious, this has gracious appeal. A magnificent example of the charms of Volnay.
2021 Bourgogne Vieilles Vignes Les Chaillots Domaine Truchetet
£150.00 In Bond £196.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
From a selection of 60-year-old vines, this is a 1 hectare vineyard on a mix of limestone and clay. The fruit is handled very gently with no pigeage, and the wine is aged in casks, 25% of which are new oak. A wine with great Pinot expression, loganberry and brambles. Good richness resulting from a later picking date, 25th September, and this has charming persistence.
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Jancis Robinson, January 2023, Score: 16
Cask sample. Pure fruit. Quite an impact on the palate. With some minerality and definite length. Drink 2025 – 2032
2021 Mercurey 1er Cru La Chassiere Vincent et Jean-Pierre Charton
£150.00 In Bond £196.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, January 2023
An highly scented style, full of fresh strawberry and raspberry, with a gentle rose petal perfume. A silky easy texture, fine and approachable with an abundance of youthful pleasure.
2021 Mercurey 1er Cru Clos du Roy Vincent et Jean-Pierre Charton
£150.00 In Bond £196.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Considered, as the name suggests, the most regal of the Mercurey Premiers Crus vineyards. A combination of marl and chalk soil, it produces pronounced and structured wines. Blackberry and Moroccan spice, the tight tension within the overall volume of fruit provides precision and complexity. Great length. This has huge class.
2021 Mercurey 1er Cru Naugues Vincent et Jean-Pierre Charton
£150.00 In Bond £196.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Les Naugues is a prized vineyard within the appellation and its deep clay soils make a gloriously full and rich Mercurey. Dark black fruit flavours with bilberry and tayberry. Excellent fleshy character, hugely pleasing.
2021 Auxey Duresses Comte Armand
£150.00 In Bond £196.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Surprisingly dark colour, flavours of liquorice, coffee bean, spiced vanilla oak and Morello cherry. A fuller and richer bodied Auxey Duresses and less mineral than some years. Good length and certain to give pleasure.
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Neal Martin, January 2023, Score: 86-88
The 2021 Auxey-Duresses Village has a well-defined and focused bouquet with vibrant blackberry and blueberry fruit, hints of crushed stone and iris flower. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, dark cherry and blueberry fruit, a little more extraction than its peers with a sweet cassis-tinged finish. Drink 2024-2023
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-88
3 barrels instead of 9. No new wood. Fullish purple colour and quite a dark fruit on the nose, showing a touch of reduction on the palate, good acidity and a fruit which follows all the way through. Drink from 2025-2028.
