Three outstanding 2016 Gevrey Chambertins
Allen Meadows, aka Burghound, is the undisputed king of Burgundy critics. Last week he released his report on the 2016 reds from the Côte de Nuits. He is eloquent about the character and quality of the wines, particularly praising the humbler regional and village wines, and he encourages enthusiastic buying.
"So, as with every vintage, the two questions for you as consumers that take precedence over everything else always are: should I buy the wines and if so, how much of them? The best wines are wonderfully refreshing, transparent and graceful with moderately firm tannic spines where the all-important element of balance is supplemented by good but not high acidities. They are balanced wines built for medium to sometimes longer-term aging yet they should also be reasonably approachable young if youthful fruit is your preference. Before I offer more detail, the short answer is yes on both accounts that the 2016s deserve a place in your cellars and there is no reason not to go heavy - I for one will be buying all that I can afford and find.
What to Buy in 2016: As I observed in the vintage summary, wine quality is not only reasonably consistent in 2016 but it's good everywhere in the Côte de Nuits as well as up and down the appellation hierarchy. But as I took pains to emphasize, it is particularly good at the lower levels and especially at the regional level."
We are very pleased to offer small parcels of these three Gevrey Chambertins, all of which Meadows rates as outstanding and two of which are included in his "Top Value" category.
The deep plummy colour is indicative of the concentration these 60-80 year old vines have produced. Made from no fewer than 17 parcels across the village this is a comprehensive portrait of Gevrey, with firm fruit content, structural tannins, and long savoury length.
A discreet touch of wood sets off earthy and overtly sauvage aromas of wild dark berries, underbrush and humus. The dense, concentrated and powerful flavors possess outstanding size, weight and verve for its level, all wrapped in a beautifully long if rustic finish where a hint of bitter cherry pit appears. This is first-rate and highly recommended provided that you have the patience to let it age because it's going to need it. Outstanding Top value. Drink: 2028+
Good depth, intensity and tension. Very pleasing and impressive. Certainly as good as many a Premier Cru. GV? Drink 2025-2038
Masses of mocha and Black Forest fruits. A supple wine with an amplitude of dark fruits. There is a feeling of tannic muscle in the central palate, with a balancing lift of both freshness and sweetness on the finish. Fine and concentrated.
Moderately generous wood frames aromas that are similar but even more complex and the better depth continues onto the denser and more powerful medium weight flavors yet the mouthfeel is relatively sleek if not actually refined, all wrapped in a muscular finish that flashes evident minerality. This will need a few years to round out the firm tannins but this should ultimately prove to be an excellent Gevrey villages plus it has an excellent track record for rewarding extended cellaring if that's your preference. Outstanding. Drink: 2023+
Saturated red-ruby. Distinctly dark, oak-influenced aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate and licorice. Denser, darker and deeper than the basic village Gevrey, with fully ripe dark berry and spice flavors lifted by a mineral component. Today the unabsorbed gas accentuates the wine's serious tannins, but this very concentrated wine (some of these vines are nearly 100 years old) has the density to ensure a graceful evolution in bottle. Leaves behind a high note of violet.