Goedhuis, July 2017
Indisputably one of the great Chardonnay houses of Champagne, Ruinart are kings of Blanc de Blancs. Their iconic non-vintage is a gleaming yellow with flecks of lime green. The nose is emphatically fresh with pure citrus fruit aromas. This is a delicious Champagne with a delicate mousse and a charming display of stone fruits. It is impeccably elegant.
Originally wool merchants, the Runiart House was established in 1729 by Nicolas Runiart who fulfilled his uncle, the Benedictine Monk, Dom Thierry Ruinart's ambition to make Ruinart a premier champagne house. At the entrance to the town of Reims, hewn out of the chalk, Ruinart's "crayères" harbour the secret of a slow ageing process normally lasting between three and twelve years depending on the cuvees. Ruinart was the first champagne House to acquire its crayères, the only ones to be classed as a historic monument in 1931, to age its wines. Without them, the ageing process would not be the same. The depth of the pits and the chalk from which they are made provide perfect thermal stability and optimum humidity. The constant low temperature leads to a slow prise de mousse (the formation of effervescence), resulting in a mousse of incomparable quality. Chardonnay, the dominant grape variety used in all Ruinart cuvees, is the very essence of the Ruinart taste. Grown in the Côte des Blancs and Montagne de Reims vineyards, this exceptionally high quality grape lends all its finesse, elegance and purity to the Ruinart champagnes.
Champagne, the world's greatest sparkling wine, needs little introduction - with imitations produced in virtually every country capable of growing grapes, including such unlikely candidates as India and China. The Champagne region, to the north of Paris, has the most northerly vineyards in France, with vines grown on slopes with a southerly exposure to maximise sunlight. The soil is chalky, providing an excellent balance of drainage and water retention. The key to the wine is in the cellar - the bubbles result from a second fermentation in the bottle and the rich toasty flavours in great Champagne come from extended bottle ageing on the yeasty lees. Until the eighteenth century, the wines produced in the Champagne area were light acidic white wines, with no hint of sparkle. However glass and closure technology developed at that time and it was not long before Dom Perignon, a Benedictine monk at the Abbey of Hautvilliers, started experimenting with blends and produced the first recognisable champagne. In a world accustomed to still wines, the advent of champagne was almost a flop. It was saved when it became fashionable at the French court as a result of Louis XV's mistress Madame de Pompadour commenting "Champagne isthe only wine that lets a woman remain beautiful after she has drunk it." And the rest is history, with famous (or infamous) champagne lovers including Casanova, Dumas, Wagner, Winston Churchill, James Bond and Coco Chanel.