Wine Advocate, April 2020,
The 2019 Riesling Trocken Tonschiefer is clear, deep and complex yet bright and refined on the delicately fruity nose. Juicy and mouthfilling yet dense, piquant and structured on the palate, this is a medium-bodied, very fine and elegant dry Riesling with a salty-piquant and pure finish. Highly stimulating and with grip. Tasted as a sample in Bremen, April 2020.
James Suckling, January 2021,
Wonderful, peachy fruit and minty freshness draw you into this sleek and very racy wine that has a ton of minerality yet remains medium-bodied. The very solid, crisp finish suggests very good aging potential. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold. Screw cap.
Jancis Robinson, June 2021,
Vibrant, appealingly fruity nose. Some breadth and charm. A food wine that's already easy to like but should lose its slight chewiness in a few months. Rather chalky texture on the finish. Too dry to drink without food, I feel. Drink 2021-2026.
Dönnhoff is one the best producers in all of Germany and the estate is arguably the most famous outside of the Mosel valley. The family domaine dates from 1750 and is comprised of 28-hectares in the Nahe, a region located southeast of the Mosel. Its climate unexpectedly evokes the Mediterranean, and its soils are comparable to the Mosel with the addition of clay, though not as steep. The combination of these 2 elements seems to give the best of both worlds - the focus and minerality of the Mosel as well as the fleshy fruit of Germany's warmer regions. The vines have been passed on from father to son to grandson and now the fourth generation holds the reins. Cornelius Dönnhoff took over from his father Helmut in 2007 after 8 years of training. Cornelius continues his father's natural (and perfectionsit) winemaking philiopshy, producing wines of extraordinary power, concentration and complexity. Indeed, they are penetrating and tasting them is like listening to excerpts of the world's greatest arias. One cannot help but be reminded why German wines used to command the prices of first growth Bordeaux. Spellbinding and thought-provoking, they are worth discovering.
Nahe is located to the south east of the Mosel. Its climate unexpectedly evokes the Mediterranean, and its slate soils are comparable to the Mosel with the addition of clay, though not as steep. The combination of these two elements seems to give the best of both worlds - the focus and minerality of the Mosel as well as the fleshy fruit of Germany's warmer regions.