Jasper Morris MW, November 2020,
Pale lemon and lime, a slightly confected nose, hyacinths appear unexpectedly, lifted, yellow fruit behind, a bit of heat. I don’t understand this today. Some tannins behind.
Laurent Ponsot is one of Burgundy’s most internationally renowned winemakers. In 2017 he formally left his family domaine in Morey St Denis, and struck out on his own with a new winemaking facility in Gilly-lès- Cîteaux from where he now runs his solo project, started in 2015, full-time. He had been instrumental in Domaine Ponsot’s rise to fame, and had built a reputation as a maverick winemaker with his unique style that combined late harvesting, destemming, and complete aversion to new oak in the cellar. His wines are concentrated and long lived, and have won him admirers the world over. He is a passionate campaigner and prominent activist in the fight against fake wine on the secondary market. Having left his family domaine in the hands of his sisters, Laurent is joined by his son, Clément, at his new project, and together they are continuing to make their hugely exciting wines. Much of the fruit comes from his share of the family vineyards that remained with him after his departure, whilst the new project has given him the opportunity to explore new appellations.
Meursault is the first great white wine area that one stumbles upon on leaving Beaune. Unlike other white dominated appellations in Burgundy, Meursault has no grand cru vineyards. It nonetheless has significant flair and power which make up for this deficiency. Indeed, if tasted blind some of these wines could even surpass other Burgundian grand crus. They are no fainting daisies. This may partially be due to Meursault's lower water table which enables the roots to delve deep in the soil picking up many trace minerals and which further stresses the vines. In addition, the cellars are more profound and cooler, enabling long fermentations, which increase complexity and longevity. Some interesting red wines are also made.