Wine Advocate, April 2020,
From very pebbly loess soils, the 2019 Riesling Kabinett Kreuznacher Krötenpfuhl is bright and sulfured on the precise, elegant and refined nose. Round and elegant on the refined palate, this is a very accessible Kabinett with flesh and texture and almost a Spätlese character. Pleasantly salty on the intense and persistent finish. Tasted as a sample in Bremen, April 2020.
Jancis Robinson, April 2020,
Lots of charming ripe fruit on the nose here. Pretty opulent for a Kabinett and with lightly grainy texture. Notably juicy.
Dönnhoff is one the best producers in all of Germany and the estate is arguably the most famous outside of the Mosel valley. The family domaine dates from 1750 and is comprised of 28-hectares in the Nahe, a region located southeast of the Mosel. Its climate unexpectedly evokes the Mediterranean, and its soils are comparable to the Mosel with the addition of clay, though not as steep. The combination of these 2 elements seems to give the best of both worlds - the focus and minerality of the Mosel as well as the fleshy fruit of Germany's warmer regions. The vines have been passed on from father to son to grandson and now the fourth generation holds the reins. Cornelius Dönnhoff took over from his father Helmut in 2007 after 8 years of training. Cornelius continues his father's natural (and perfectionsit) winemaking philiopshy, producing wines of extraordinary power, concentration and complexity. Indeed, they are penetrating and tasting them is like listening to excerpts of the world's greatest arias. One cannot help but be reminded why German wines used to command the prices of first growth Bordeaux. Spellbinding and thought-provoking, they are worth discovering.
Nahe is located to the south east of the Mosel. Its climate unexpectedly evokes the Mediterranean, and its slate soils are comparable to the Mosel with the addition of clay, though not as steep. The combination of these two elements seems to give the best of both worlds - the focus and minerality of the Mosel as well as the fleshy fruit of Germany's warmer regions.