- Helmut Dönnhoff
- Case size
Wine Advocate, April 2020,
The 2019 Riesling GG Dellchen is enormously fine and elegant on the subtle but fascinatingly complex nose that intertwines stony notes with yellow-fleshed stone fruit aromas. On the palate, this is an intense, highly finessed and elegant Dellchen with incredibly refined juiciness and great balance and purity. The finish is very long and complex but keeps the finesse and purity. Very stimulating and salty—a great Dellchen GG and one of the finest I have had from Cornelius Dönnhoff! Tasted as a sample in Bremen, April 2020.
Dönnhoff is one the best producers in all of Germany and the estate is arguably the most famous outside of the Mosel valley. The family domaine dates from 1750 and is comprised of 28-hectares in the Nahe, a region located southeast of the Mosel. Its climate unexpectedly evokes the Mediterranean, and its soils are comparable to the Mosel with the addition of clay, though not as steep. The combination of these 2 elements seems to give the best of both worlds - the focus and minerality of the Mosel as well as the fleshy fruit of Germany's warmer regions. The vines have been passed on from father to son to grandson and now the fourth generation holds the reins. Cornelius Dönnhoff took over from his father Helmut in 2007 after 8 years of training. Cornelius continues his father's natural (and perfectionsit) winemaking philiopshy, producing wines of extraordinary power, concentration and complexity. Indeed, they are penetrating and tasting them is like listening to excerpts of the world's greatest arias. One cannot help but be reminded why German wines used to command the prices of first growth Bordeaux. Spellbinding and thought-provoking, they are worth discovering.
Nahe is located to the south east of the Mosel. Its climate unexpectedly evokes the Mediterranean, and its slate soils are comparable to the Mosel with the addition of clay, though not as steep. The combination of these two elements seems to give the best of both worlds - the focus and minerality of the Mosel as well as the fleshy fruit of Germany's warmer regions.