Jasper Morris MW, November 2020,
Pale colour with a light green streak, this is in the lean fresh style. Then light and sweeter fruit on the palate, plums and fresh apricot, softer finish
Laurent Ponsot is one of Burgundy’s most internationally renowned winemakers. In 2017 he formally left his family domaine in Morey St Denis, and struck out on his own with a new winemaking facility in Gilly-lès- Cîteaux from where he now runs his solo project, started in 2015, full-time. He had been instrumental in Domaine Ponsot’s rise to fame, and had built a reputation as a maverick winemaker with his unique style that combined late harvesting, destemming, and complete aversion to new oak in the cellar. His wines are concentrated and long lived, and have won him admirers the world over. He is a passionate campaigner and prominent activist in the fight against fake wine on the secondary market. Having left his family domaine in the hands of his sisters, Laurent is joined by his son, Clément, at his new project, and together they are continuing to make their hugely exciting wines. Much of the fruit comes from his share of the family vineyards that remained with him after his departure, whilst the new project has given him the opportunity to explore new appellations.
This blanket regional appellation can apply to wines throughout Burgundy (60% of the area's production) as long as they comply with regulations relating to grape type, yield and alcohol content. Reds and roses are from Pinot Noir or Gamay. Whites are Chardonnay. They are usually the most straightforward of the Burgundy wines, and as a result are the least expensive and the most approachable upon release. In the hands of a more serious producer these can represent exceptional value and quality. The wines are made with the same care and attention to detail as their grander wines. However, they may not qualify for a village or communal appellation because the vines are too young or the vineyard area is outside the appellation boundary.