Goedhuis, November 2018
This wine was sorely missed from the list last year. It is a relief to have the Comte Armand village Volnay back, and a pleasure to see that the vines have made a good recovery from the frost. These parcels were picked early on, and it captures the transparent freshness and pretty structure of charming Volnay village. Its soft, supple finish is the result of very light handling in the cellar and gentle pressing.
Neal Martin, January 2019,
The 2017 Volnay Village comes from two parcels: 40% from Les Famines, where old vines are located, and 60% from Grand Champs. It offers bright red cherries and raspberry preserve on the nose, which is just a bit too showy compared to the more controlled pair from Auxey-Duresses. The medium-bodied palate is a little savory in style, offering fleshy red fruit, grainy tannin and a conservative finish. 2020 - 2027
Burghound, April 2019,
In contrast to the first two wines, here the nose is sufficiently reduced to render an evaluation difficult. By contrast there is good freshness and verve to the more precisely detailed middle weight flavors where the supporting tannins are notably finer even though the finish is also ever-so-slightly rustic. A quality Volnay villages. DRINK 2025+
Clos des Épeneaux is Pommard’s most celebrated climat. The 5.23 hectare monopole has been in the Comte Armand family since 1828. Paul Zinetti took over from Benjamin Leroux as régisseur in 2014, and is rising to every challenge at this small, characterful domaine. They also have small holdings in Volnay and Auxey Duresses and, while these wines have the distinctive character of quintessential Côte de Beaune, they are also some of the most sophisticated, nuanced expressions you might taste across these villages. An understated use of new oak matches the textured fruit, and gentle handling in combination with intuitive biodynamic practices afford these wines both strength and delicacy. The domaine has begun to noticeably outpace its neighbours and redefine how the finest terroir of Pommard is capable of not only power but elegance as well.
A red wine appellation only, wines from Volnay might be considered the most revered of southern Burgundy. They have been celebrated since the 18th century for their delicacy. But they are not fruit forward like those of Beaune or Chorey Lès Beaune nor have the brooding structure of Pommard.Instead, they have superb linearity, focus and poise while sheathed in velvety tannin. This slightly reticent personality comes out even more with a bit of age, though some can be approached very young. There are no grand cru vineyards in Volnay, but there are some excellent premier cru examples including Volnay Les Champans and Volnay Les Caillerets. Chardonnay grown in the shared Santenots vineyard must be labelled as Meursault.