- Domaine Denis Mortet
- Pinot Noir
- 2024 - 2035
- Case size
Goedhuis, November 2018
Arnaud’s cuvée is made up of five plots that are scattered across this substantial vineyard’s slope and make an outstanding example of this most lauded of premiers crus. Its cool soils and the Combe’s fresh wind means this vineyard loves sunshine. Arnaud says the cuvée usually averages 12-12.5% alcohol, but in 2017’s conditions it reached 13% naturally meaning this is a particularly open and fruity illustration of the vineyard. It is both pretty and serious, with a discreet power and long, elegant finish.
Neal Martin, January 2019,
The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru matures in 75% new oak and 100% de-stemmed. It has a crisp and well-defined bouquet with black cherries, raspberry and rose petals that unfurls beautifully with time. The palate is medium-bodied with precise tannins, extremely detailed, not long in the mouth with surfeit freshness and tension, and a touch of white pepper on the finish. Sophisticated and classy. 2022 - 2040
Burghound, January 2019,
Firm reduction dominates the fruit today. Otherwise, and as is usually the case, this is easily the biggest and most powerful wine in the range among the Mortet 1ers with its overtly muscular big-bodied flavors that exude a subtle minerality on the textured, youthfully austere and very firmly structured finish. This is certainly impressive and especially so for the vintage though I find it somewhat more rustic than usual. Drink 2032+
Wine Advocate, January 2019,
Matured in 70% new oak and entirely destemmed, Mortet's 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques hails from fully five distinct parcels that together amount to 1.2 hectares of this superior premier cru. Wafting from the glass with notes of ripe cherry, cassis, raspberry, dried flowers, grilled meats and rich soil, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered, with lovely energy and good depth and tension at the core despite its charming profile. Like many of the vintage's greatest successes, it will offer a broad drinking window.
Decanter, December 2018,
The Mortets' five parcels here cover 1.2ha in all, and run from the top of the Combe de Lavaux to the bottom, close to the Clos St-Jacques. Fermented without whole bunches, this is another superb red from Arnaud Mortet, now established as one of the best red winemakers in Burgundy. It's juicy, textured and crunchy, with the acidity that's typical of the terroir and deftly handled 80% new wood. Drinking Window 2025 - 2030
Domaine Denis Mortet
For many years, Dénis Mortet worked passionately to create one of the most sought after domaines in Burgundy. He learned about winemaking while working with his father Charles, a cousin of Charles Rousseau. From the early 1990s he built his vineyard area to almost 10 hectares dispersed throughout Gevrey Chambertin, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot, Fixin and Marsannay. His exceptional determination and self-criticism drove him in pursuit of the holy grail of Gevrey Chambertin. Year-in and year-out, he aimed for higher and higher ideals believing that there was always better, always purer. Sadly, he has not lived to see his results. After his tragic death in 2006 at the age of just 51, his son, Arnaud, took over vineyard management and winemaking. Since then, this domaine has been soaring to ever-greater heights. In Dénis’s era the wines had been admired for their opulence, but in the past decade Arnaud has redefined the Mortet style as one that ascends towards a pinnacle of finesse and elegance. The dextrous handling of each parcel means the Fixin and Marsannay are as interesting talking points as the Lavaux St Jacques and Clos de Vougeot. The domaine has forged a reputation for organic viticulture par excellence, and the dedicated work in the vineyards is abundantly clear in the cellar. Arnaud has an astonishing gift for managing whole bunch fruit and matching new oak to his pure, crystalline wines.
The greatest village in terms of notable grand cru vineyards, Gevrey Chambertin has no less than 9 of them including its most famous Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze, and includes a premier cru vineyard that many people deem grand cru in quality - Clos St. Jacques. It encompasses approximately 400 hectares under vine also making it the largest top quality vineyard area in the Côte de Nuits. Gevrey-Chambertin has many followers who seek out its deeply coloured, robust and textured wines. They are often firmer than the neighbouring appellations of Chambolle Musigny and Vosne Romanée and can take several years to soften once released. Due to its size and reputation, the list of excellent producers is noteworthy and many are worth seeking out.