- Domaine Denis Mortet
- Pinot Noir
- 2025 - 2045
- Case size
Neal Martin, January 2019,
The 2017 Echézeaux Grand Cru is the second release after the paltry half-barrel debut last year due to frost damage (this métayage shared with Christophe Roumier.) It contains around 25% whole bunches and 70% new oak. Mortet works this parcel by horse since the incline is a little too steep for a tractor. It has a beautiful bouquet, very well defined with mineral-rich red berry fruit mixed with briary and light graphite scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, quite saline at first but the silkiness of the tannins towards the finish is beguiling. Just an exquisite and sensual Echézeaux. 2022 - 2040
Burghound, January 2019,
More discreet oak surrounds the notably spice-infused aromas of red and dark berries, sandalwood and Asian-style tea. The medium weight flavors possess a highly seductive and refined mouthfeel while delivering evident minerality on the persistent, complex and nicely balanced finish. This is firm and a bit austere but not rustic and should age gracefully. Drink 2032+
Domaine Denis Mortet
For many years, Dénis Mortet worked passionately to create one of the most sought after domaines in Burgundy. He learned about winemaking while working with his father Charles, a cousin of Charles Rousseau. From the early 1990s he built his vineyard area to almost 10 hectares dispersed throughout Gevrey Chambertin, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot, Fixin and Marsannay. His exceptional determination and self-criticism drove him in pursuit of the holy grail of Gevrey Chambertin. Year-in and year-out, he aimed for higher and higher ideals believing that there was always better, always purer. Sadly, he has not lived to see his results. After his tragic death in 2006 at the age of just 51, his son, Arnaud, took over vineyard management and winemaking. Since then, this domaine has been soaring to ever-greater heights. In Dénis’s era the wines had been admired for their opulence, but in the past decade Arnaud has redefined the Mortet style as one that ascends towards a pinnacle of finesse and elegance. The dextrous handling of each parcel means the Fixin and Marsannay are as interesting talking points as the Lavaux St Jacques and Clos de Vougeot. The domaine has forged a reputation for organic viticulture par excellence, and the dedicated work in the vineyards is abundantly clear in the cellar. Arnaud has an astonishing gift for managing whole bunch fruit and matching new oak to his pure, crystalline wines.
One of two Grand Crus within the Flagey-Echezeaux area right in the heart of the Cote de Nuits. Relatively large and consequently diverse for a Grand Cru, the better Echézeaux wines undoubtedly deserve this status. As always in Burgundy vineyard location and grower is critical.