- Cullen Wines
- Margaret River
- Cabernet Franc / Merlot
- 2020 - 2030
- Case size
Wine Advocate, January 2020,
The 2017 Kevin John Chardonnay features gentle notes of toast and honey overlaid on a core of fig, citrus fruit and white peaches. Medium-bodied, it's creamy in texture yet taut and crisp, with a long finish that ends on a dusty, phenolic note. It should drink well for a decade or so. Drink Date 2019 – 2030.
James Suckling, May 2019,
This has a lemon-cream edge to the nose with white peaches and a gentle edge of grilled hazelnuts, pie crust and pastry. The palate is super fresh, lithe and juicy with a tangy core of white-peach and lemon and lime-sorbet flavor that holds the finish. So elegant yet concentrated and long. Drink or hold. Screw cap.
Decanter, November 2018,
With cooler than average spring and summer temperatures, the harvest took place between 8 February and 6 March. This wine was naturally fermented (including malol) in a combination of barriques, amphorae and ceramic eggs, then aged for five months in French oak, 30% new. Notes of bay leaf, nutty kernel and floral riffs nuance the athletic white peach and pear fruit. Lively lemony acidity brings levity and line to the palate, although this is still limbering up and could score higher in time. Drinking 2019 – 2030.
Matthew Jukes, October 2020
2017 Kevin John Wilyabrup is another remarkably controlled and deeply flavoured wine with lovely lines and a softly spoken approach. The intensity builds on the palate and it never lets itself get too excited nor too fast-moving as it stretches out its long, lithe figure and grows gradually like an awakening nymph. The oak is nutty and not too powerful so the fruit can show its fragility and detail.
Certainly the best wine area in Western Australia, if not the whole country. The idyllic scenery of Margaret River (surf-lapped rocky coast, towering karri forest, abundant wildlife) has only been home to wine production since the 1970s. Hard to believe given the quality of the Chardonnays and Cabernets produced by the likes of Leeuwin, Cullen, Moss Wood and Vasse Felix. Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon all also thrive here. The climate is mild, tempered by the Indian Ocean and the drying wind known as the Freemantle Doctor, and infertile red loam soils are the most sought after for viticulture.