- Domaine Denis Mortet
- Pinot Noir
- 2025 - 2045
- Case size
Neal Martin, January 2019,
The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru contains 40-50% whole bunches and is matured in 100% new oak (the only cuvée to do so.) It has quite an intense bouquet and as you would expect, the new wood is expressed as much as the fruit at the moment. With time, scents of tobacco and undergrowth emerge. The palate is very well balanced with grippy tannin, quite saline in the mouth with plenty of tightly-wound, detailed black fruit towards the lengthy finish. It will require several years in bottle but will be worth the wait. 2023 - 2045
Burghound, January 2019,
Once again there is an admirably discreet application of wood lurking in the background of the markedly cool, airy and restrained nose that offers up notes of red currant, game, leather, violet and lavender. The broad-shouldered flavors are borderline painfully intense while exuding almost palpable amounts of minerality on the driving, linear and exceptionally firm yet beautifully well-balanced finale. This is clearly built for the very long haul and is a wine that will need it. Drink 2037+
Wine Advocate, January 2019,
There are three new barrels of the 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru, an integrated but reserved wine that offers up notes of dried rose petals, grilled meats, espresso roast and sweet berries. On the palate, it's full-bodied, ample and satiny, with excellent depth and a tight-knit core that's framed by a fine but firm chassis of structuring tannins. Less forthcoming than the Mazis-Chambertin and Bonnes-Mares, it likely also has a longer future.
Decanter, December 2018,
It's a close-run thing, but this is even better than the Mazis in 2017, made with what Arnaud Mortet says are some of the most beautiful grapes he's ever seen. Hailing from a 0.15ha holding of 60-year-old vines, it easily handles its 100% new oak, such is the precision, texture and concentration on offer here. One of the wines of the vintage. Drinking Window 2025 - 2032
Domaine Denis Mortet
For many years, Dénis Mortet worked passionately to create one of the most sought after domaines in Burgundy. He learned about winemaking while working with his father Charles, a cousin of Charles Rousseau. From the early 1990s he built his vineyard area to almost 10 hectares dispersed throughout Gevrey Chambertin, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot, Fixin and Marsannay. His exceptional determination and self-criticism drove him in pursuit of the holy grail of Gevrey Chambertin. Year-in and year-out, he aimed for higher and higher ideals believing that there was always better, always purer. Sadly, he has not lived to see his results. After his tragic death in 2006 at the age of just 51, his son, Arnaud, took over vineyard management and winemaking. Since then, this domaine has been soaring to ever-greater heights. In Dénis’s era the wines had been admired for their opulence, but in the past decade Arnaud has redefined the Mortet style as one that ascends towards a pinnacle of finesse and elegance. The dextrous handling of each parcel means the Fixin and Marsannay are as interesting talking points as the Lavaux St Jacques and Clos de Vougeot. The domaine has forged a reputation for organic viticulture par excellence, and the dedicated work in the vineyards is abundantly clear in the cellar. Arnaud has an astonishing gift for managing whole bunch fruit and matching new oak to his pure, crystalline wines.
Gevrey Chambertin lies well to the north of the Cote de Nuits. It has no less than 9 grand cru vineyards and the most famous of these is Chambertin. Often considered the greatest of all red Burgundies for its complexity, power and intensity, Chambertin's fine wines are unsurprisingly rare and are priced accordingly. They also need years to develop to their full potential, but are undoubtedly worth the wait.