- René Rostaing
- 2017 - 2020
- Case size
- Available Now
Goedhuis, October 2017
From the southwest facing granite soil lieu dit La Côte Bonnette, which is the first parcel in the appellation after the border with Côte Rôtie. This Viognier is always fermented and raised in 100% stainless steel. With a higher than avarage yield in 2016, Pierre explains how this vintage has been a gift for Viognier. A naturally higher yield suits the variety, which can become cumbersome with lower yields. This example has gorgeous blossom aromas and a fresh, dynamic palate of white peach flesh with a saline undertow. Extremely fine and elegant, and ideal for enjoyment in its flush of youth.
Wine Advocate, December 2017,
Since the last time I visited the domaine a few years ago, I'm happy to say the whites at Rostaing have improved in clarity and focus. The 2016 Condrieu la Bonnette is medium-bodied, offering attractive floral, apricot and spice aromas. It's not overly rich but is fresh instead, with a clean, refreshing, peppery/gingery finish. It should drink well for a few years.
René Rostaing retired after the 2014 vintage, leaving the estate in the capable hands of his son Pierre. René had spent 40 years building a reputation as the patriarch of the Northern Rhône, and Pierre’s handling of the 2015s and 2016s showed a seamless handover has taken place. For the 2017 vintage the house recipe remains unchanged: old vines from the region’s greatest sites, a high proportion of whole bunch vinification, long macerations, and restrained use of new French oak. Pierre has continued his father’s inimitable style in Condrieu, fermenting the wine in stainless steel. The estate is known for its unique use of Rototanks for its red fermentation – closed horizontal tanks with internal plunging mechanisms. René started using these in 1985 and believes they give much gentler pigeage than what can be achieved by hand. The closed tanks also help protect the wines from oxidation. This enables long maceration times, and the resulting wines are typically deep in colour, full of flavour, and abundant in tannins.
A white wine appellation, Condrieu is produced uniquely from Viognier to make both dry and sweet examples. Its best vineyards are grown on shards of decomposed mica often lending a pronounced minerality in its wines. Though Condrieu had a famous past, its more recent history has been modest and its bottlings were virtually unknown outside its region until the 1980s and 1990s when aficionados began to discover its unusual balance of intense fruity aromatics with its bone dry palate. In particularly warm vintages, their wines are notably rich and hedonistic.