2016 CHÂTEAUNEUF DU PAPE CLOS DES PAPES PAUL AVRIL - 6x75cl

Tasting Notes

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  Goedhuis, November 2017

  This is such a complex wine, it’s hard to know where to begin. Since Vincent co-ferments varieties as they are harvested, the characters of each are intricately interwoven in the final blend. The high proportion of 30% Mourvèdre brings finesse and elegance, whilst the core of 55% Grenache brings a creamy, silky texture. Syrah and Counoise add savoury minerality. There is a suggestion of wild garrigue herbs, and at the centre of the palate is a profound, deep core of richness. This richness is the defining element of the vintage, Vincent says. The tannins of this wine are already superlative, and their ripeness and power should aid the wine along to a long life.

• 

  Wine Advocate, October 2017,
  Score: 94-96

  Paul-Vincent Avril and I tasted his 2016 Chateauneuf du Pape from several different foudres, including number 30, which he said best approximated the final blend. It boasts everything you could ever want in a full-bodied red: complex garrigue and anise notes, a blend of cherry, peach and blueberry fruit, a lush, creamy texture and a long finish. With its power and concentration, it should age well for at least two decades. Drink Date 2020 - 2040

• 

  Jancis Robinson, November 2017,
  Score: 17.5+

  Several different cask samples tasted at the domaine. Sample 1: 84% Grenache, 13% Mourvèdre, 1% Syrah, 1% Counoise. Rich succulent, refined red fruit with milk chocolate and herbs and a juicy, refreshing finish. 'Too rich for me,' according to winemaker Vincent Avril. Sample 2: 46% Syrah, 38% Grenache, 13% Mourvèdre, 3% Counoise. Meaty, smoky nose with gorgeous pepper character. Succulent, fragrance, perfumed, sophisticated – would make the northern Rhône jealous! Sample 3: 55% Grenache, 38% Mourvèdre, 7% Vaccarèse, Muscardin and Counoise. Wonderful herbal note, blackcurrant fruit, peppercorns and chocolate. Dry but ripe tannin. Energy and clarity – and somehow so dainty. Sample 4: 50% Grenache, 25% Mourvèdre, 25% Syrah. More closed on the nose than sample 3, but so gorgeous on the palate – fibrous, lengthy, fresh. Smoked meat to finish. Expert balance. Sample 5 – possible final blend: 55% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah, plus Muscardin, Counoise and Vaccarèse. Succulent, fine, ripe red fruit with a shot of blackcurrant and spiciness. Tannin like rubbed breadcrumbs – so fine. Not at all overblown – a lovely thing. (RH) Drink 2020-2047

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Producer

Clos des Papes

One of the oldest winemaking families in Châteauneuf du Pape, the Avrils began their vinous adventures in the early 17th century. Today, the domaine is run by Vincent Avril who took over from his father Paul in the early 1990s. Rightly revered as one of the greatest growers of the appellation, Vincent Avril is lifting his long-established family estate to new heights. Having studied in Burgundy and trained in cellars all over the world (including a stage at Mouton Rothschild) Vincent Avril saw in his 32nd vintage at the domaine in 2017. He makes supreme wines, blending varieties from the moment they are picked, so that Grenache may be co-fermented with Syrah or Mourvèdre, or all three together. His various cuves are therefore mini blends, and show the different facets of the final blend. Vincent is uninterested in creating super cuvées, so makes just one red and one white, which he considers the best expression of this appellation. He abhors the idea of selling any wine in bulk, and that 70% of the appellation is traded like this makes him furious. At Clos des Papes, if the fruit is not good enough for the blend it simply won’t make it as far as the winery door. Low yields ensure concentration, and the same team of pickers over the past 20 years safeguard careful selection of each bunch.