Domaine Michel Lafarge
In Burgundy, in each vintage and each vineyard there are usually both good and underwhelming wines, but if one had to name a grower whose every wine is consistently excellent, it would be Michel Lafarge, the former mayor of Volnay. This family domaine in the heart of the village of Volnay, was created at the beginning of the 19th century. Since then, the property has grown to 12 hectares. Along with Michel's son, Frederic, who, since 1997 has introduced some biodynamic methods, theytook the whole domaine biodynamic in 2000.
A red wine appellation only, wines from Volnay might be considered the most revered of southern Burgundy. They have been celebrated since the 18th century for their delicacy. But they are not fruit forward like those of Beaune or Chorey Lès Beaune nor have the brooding structure of Pommard.Instead, they have superb linearity, focus and poise while sheathed in velvety tannin. This slightly reticent personality comes out even more with a bit of age, though some can be approached very young. There are no grand cru vineyards in Volnay, but there are some excellent premier cru examples including Volnay Les Champans and Volnay Les Caillerets. Chardonnay grown in the shared Santenots vineyard must be labelled as Meursault.