- Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey
- 2018 - 2021
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Neal Martin, April 2017,
The 2015 Bourgogne Chardonnay includes some fruit from En Remilly this year, specifically from bunches where the warm summer had dried the berries a little too much. It has an attractive bouquet with tropical tones (guava and dried pineapple), though well defined. The palate is rounded, slightly viscous on the entry with quite piercing acidity on the back palate. I feel that it needs a little more harmony, but it should offer decent drinking pleasure over the next couple of years. NM Score 85/100 Drink Date : 2017-2019 Somebody had described Pierre-Yves Colin's new winery on the outskirts of Chassagne-Montrachet as looking like a disco. I am not sure which discos this person has been to. Certainly I never frequented one installed with stainless steel vats and barrels, but hey, there is probably one out there somewhere. We went up to Pierre-Yves' tasting room that enjoys a splendid vista over towards Chassagne to taste through the complete range, around half of the crus in bottle and half still in barrel (as indicated by those with banded scores). "We started the harvest on 1 September," he told me. "We planned 27 August when I saw the high temperature, but we wanted to wait for lower temperatures. We had a bit of rain on the Tuesday morning so we started with the Bourgogne Chardonnay, then started in Meursault. We picked everything by 8 or 9 September. In some terroir, it can be difficult in such a warm and dry season, which meant that sometimes there is less character in terms of mineralité. But they became more interesting after the rain at the beginning of September. Occasionally it could be challenging for the younger vines as well. The fruit was very clean with no rot at all, good ripeness but not crazily high, the highest around 13.4° alcohol. We don't often have this quality of grapes—they were clean with good ripeness even in the lowliest of appellations. I never worried about the acidity and everything went through full malolactic. The Bourgogne and Saint Aubin were bottled in the second week of January [it used to be before the following harvest] and the others, Meursault, Chassagne-Montrachet later this spring. There is no lees-stirring." Pierre-Yves wines have been rightly praised in recent years. The only caveat is that they tend to be made in a more reductive style, so give them adequate time in a decanting to get the most from them. Whilst it is true that 2015 was not a favorable vintage for Burgundy whites, Pierre-Yves did a sterling job this year.
Domaine Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey is based in the village of Chassagne Montrachet and is the creation of Pierre-Yves Colin and Caroline Morey. Talented winemaker Pierre-Yves started out at his father’s estate, Domaine Marc Colin in 1994. In 2001 he and his wife, Caroline Morey, set up a small négociant operation on the side and in 2005 he left the family domaine to pursue this venture full time, taking with him six hectares of Marc Colin vineyards. Today, a third of production is négoce while the rest comes from vines they own. In the winery, Pierre-Yves and Caroline have gone to great lengths to prevent premature oxidation, including using corks with a wider diameter. There is no bâtonnage and the wines are kept in barrel longer (mostly 350 litres demi-muids) to avoid the need for fining and filtration.
This blanket regional appellation can apply to wines throughout Burgundy (60% of the area's production) as long as they comply with regulations relating to grape type, yield and alcohol content. Reds and roses are from Pinot Noir or Gamay. Whites are Chardonnay. They are usually the most straightforward of the Burgundy wines, and as a result are the least expensive and the most approachable upon release. In the hands of a more serious producer these can represent exceptional value and quality. The wines are made with the same care and attention to detail as their grander wines. However, they may not qualify for a village or communal appellation because the vines are too young or the vineyard area is outside the appellation boundary.