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Antonio Galloni, November 2019,
The 2014 Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti is laser-like in its focus. Then again, we are talking about Montefico. Linear and driven in feel, the 2014 is going to appeal most to readers who like super-classic, austere wines. Montefico is nervous on its own, but in this cold vintage it is especially tight. I can't wait to taste it with bottle age. Tobacco, dried cherry, crushed flowers, cedar, orange peel, anise, sage, and mint give the 2014 a decidedly earthy, savory feel to play off the super-persistent, long and utterly brilliant finish. Drink 2022-2044
With roots dating back to the 1800s this historic property has always been family owned and is today run by the fifth generation, Luca Roagna, who is making truly outstanding wines. In recent years Roagna has risen to the very top, making many of the most distinguished Italian critics truly giddy with excitement. The wines are mesmerising, beguiling. They embody the finesse, elegance and purity of great Nebbiolo with their striking aromas, silky tannins, vibrant fruit, and mid-weight structure. They capture perfectly the essence of each site with their expressive beauty. The family own 12 hectares of vines which are split between Barbaresco and Barolo. They include some choice parcels in the region's finest vineyards. This includes the monople of Pira in Barolo's Castiglione Falletto, which is the location of Luca’s new winery and cellar. However the heart of the Roagna estate is its 6 1/2 hectares of vineyards in the commune of Barbaresco. Pajé is their flagship cru, where the oldest vines are a minimum of 50 years. From this vineyard they produced three labels; Pajé, Pajé Vecchie Viti and Crichët Pajé, based on the age of the vines. They also have outstanding plots in Asili and Montefico.
Piedmont is located in the north western corner of Italy. Though several grape varieties are prominent such as Dolcetto, Barbera and Moscato, it is Nebbiolo that reigns supreme. It produces wines that are not particularly deep in colour, yet they are perfumed, powerful and can age for many years. Due to the ethereal nature of the Nebbiolo grape and the numerous single vineyard wines, many compare top examples to grand cru Burgundies of the Côte de Nuits.Mountainous, its vineyards are cut into the hillsides forming terraces reminiscent of the Mosel Valley in Germany and the northern Rhone Valley in France. The two most notable appellations are Barolo and Barbaresco.