- Comte Armand
- Pinot Noir
- 2018 - 2025
- Case size
- Available Now
Neal Martin, December 2014,
There are just two barrels of the 2013 Volnay 1er Cru les Fremiets this year, one of them new and the other second-fill. It suffered a few problems with fermentation because it had been difficult to cool the grapes, so it initially smelled a little acetic. It has a refined bouquet, a little distant at first, yet returning after a minute there are some very seductive wilted rose petal, wet limestone and fresh raspberry scents that are just beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm backbone, a little chalky in the mouth, with a fine thread of acidity and an energetic, soy-tinged finish. This is very fine, though frankly there is little between this and the Volnay village cru. Drink 2017-2025
Burghound, April 2015,
Here the nose is reduced though the underlying fruit seems both ripe and fresh. There is even more minerality and precision to the middle weight flavors though the vibrant finale displays enough dryness that I am concerned that it may not dissipate with age. As such my suggested drinking window is deliberately short. Drink 2017+
Clos des Épeneaux is Pommard’s most celebrated climat. The 5.23 hectare monopole has been in the Comte Armand family since 1828. Paul Zinetti took over from Benjamin Leroux as régisseur in 2014, and is rising to every challenge at this small, characterful domaine. They also have small holdings in Volnay and Auxey Duresses and, while these wines have the distinctive character of quintessential Côte de Beaune, they are also some of the most sophisticated, nuanced expressions you might taste across these villages. An understated use of new oak matches the textured fruit, and gentle handling in combination with intuitive biodynamic practices afford these wines both strength and delicacy. The domaine has begun to noticeably outpace its neighbours and redefine how the finest terroir of Pommard is capable of not only power but elegance as well.
A red wine appellation only, wines from Volnay might be considered the most revered of southern Burgundy. They have been celebrated since the 18th century for their delicacy. But they are not fruit forward like those of Beaune or Chorey Lès Beaune nor have the brooding structure of Pommard.Instead, they have superb linearity, focus and poise while sheathed in velvety tannin. This slightly reticent personality comes out even more with a bit of age, though some can be approached very young. There are no grand cru vineyards in Volnay, but there are some excellent premier cru examples including Volnay Les Champans and Volnay Les Caillerets. Chardonnay grown in the shared Santenots vineyard must be labelled as Meursault.