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Antonio Galloni, October 2018,
The 2013 Barbaresco Montefico Vecchie Viti is incredibly precise and finely sketched. Barbarescos from Montefico often are aggressive when they are young. That is far from the case here, even if the 2013 is best cellared for at least a few years. Sage, mint, tobacco, chalk, smoke, and crushed flowers add beguiling aromatic top notes to power through in a mid-weight, searing Barbaresco endowed with tremendous character. What a wine! Drink 2023 - 2038
With roots dating back to the 1800s this historic property has always been family owned and is today run by the fifth generation, Luca Roagna, who is making truly outstanding wines. In recent years Roagna has risen to the very top, making many of the most distinguished Italian critics truly giddy with excitement. The wines are mesmerising, beguiling. They embody the finesse, elegance and purity of great Nebbiolo with their striking aromas, silky tannins, vibrant fruit, and mid-weight structure. They capture perfectly the essence of each site with their expressive beauty. The family own 12 hectares of vines which are split between Barbaresco and Barolo. They include some choice parcels in the region's finest vineyards. This includes the monople of Pira in Barolo's Castiglione Falletto, which is the location of Luca’s new winery and cellar. However the heart of the Roagna estate is its 6 1/2 hectares of vineyards in the commune of Barbaresco. Pajé is their flagship cru, where the oldest vines are a minimum of 50 years. From this vineyard they produced three labels; Pajé, Pajé Vecchie Viti and Crichët Pajé, based on the age of the vines. They also have outstanding plots in Asili and Montefico.
Situated due northeast of Barolo, Barbaresco's soils are predominantly calcareous marls similar tothe vineyards of La Morra. Barbarescos tend to be lighter and more delicate in style with tannins that are often more textured than its Barolo counterparts. Slightly lower in altitude than Barolo, its Nebbiolo tends to ripen earlier creating some possible vintage variations between the two neighbouring areas. The wines are also released a year earlier.