Neal Martin, December 2013,
The 2012 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is an assemblage of four lieux-dits around the village, each offering its own facets. Raised in 50% new oak, it has a very focused and fragrant bouquet with lifted fresh strawberry, Morello and mineral scents that unfold in the glass. The palate has a real frisson on the entry. There is a hint of dark chocolate towards the finish that is defined by dark broody blackberry and bilberry fruit. This is a complex premier cru, one that will require 5-6 years in bottle.
Burghound, January 2015,
(a blend, listed in order of size: Les Champonnets, Cherbaudes, Bel Air and Petite Chapelle with an average vine age of 60+ years). There is enough reduction on the slightly woody nose to suggest that a good decanting is in order if you’re tempted to try a bottle of this young. There is however good freshness and vitality to the mineral-inflected, concentrated and ripe middle weight flavors that possess a slightly rustic but long finish where a trace of wood resurfaces. Drink 2021+
Domaine Denis Mortet
For many years, Dénis Mortet worked passionately to create one of the most sought after domaines in Burgundy. He learned about winemaking while working with his father Charles, a cousin of Charles Rousseau. From the early 1990s he built his vineyard area to almost 10 hectares dispersed throughout Gevrey Chambertin, Chambolle Musigny, Vougeot, Fixin and Marsannay. His exceptional determination and self-criticism drove him in pursuit of the holy grail of Gevrey Chambertin. Year-in and year-out, he aimed for higher and higher ideals believing that there was always better, always purer. Sadly, he has not lived to see his results. After his tragic death in 2006 at the age of just 51, his son, Arnaud, took over vineyard management and winemaking. Since then, this domaine has been soaring to ever-greater heights. In Dénis’s era the wines had been admired for their opulence, but in the past decade Arnaud has redefined the Mortet style as one that ascends towards a pinnacle of finesse and elegance. The dextrous handling of each parcel means the Fixin and Marsannay are as interesting talking points as the Lavaux St Jacques and Clos de Vougeot. The domaine has forged a reputation for organic viticulture par excellence, and the dedicated work in the vineyards is abundantly clear in the cellar. Arnaud has an astonishing gift for managing whole bunch fruit and matching new oak to his pure, crystalline wines.
The greatest village in terms of notable grand cru vineyards, Gevrey Chambertin has no less than 9 of them including its most famous Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Bèze, and includes a premier cru vineyard that many people deem grand cru in quality - Clos St. Jacques. It encompasses approximately 400 hectares under vine also making it the largest top quality vineyard area in the Côte de Nuits. Gevrey-Chambertin has many followers who seek out its deeply coloured, robust and textured wines. They are often firmer than the neighbouring appellations of Chambolle Musigny and Vosne Romanée and can take several years to soften once released. Due to its size and reputation, the list of excellent producers is noteworthy and many are worth seeking out.