- Peter Sisseck
- Ribera del Duero
- 2014 - 2025
- Case size
Wine Advocate, August 2014,
I have tasted the 2010 Pingus a number of times since I published a note on it in issue 207 in June 2013, my first and probably the shortest article ever published at The Wine Advocate. I have consistently found it significantly better than when I first tasted it, so I decided to put it together with the latest releases, 2011 and 2012, to compare. The Pingus vineyards had been converted to biodynamic in the year 2000 and after the warm and dry 2009, 2010 was almost perfect. The vineyards yielded a disastrous 11 hectoliters per hectare, and the grape selection provided enough grapes for 6,000 bottles that were obtained fermenting in 2,000-liter oak vats and aging the wine for 22 months in second-fill French oak barrels. The 2010 is extremely aromatic, open and hedonistic and one extra year in bottle has only done the wine good, the oak feels much more integrated and the toasty aromas have all but disappeared. The palate is medium-bodied, with very fine tannins good acidity and freshness. This is really superb, with astonishing balance and power. With time in the glass it develops more complex aromas, with things like orange peel that really reminded me of the Riberas of yesteryear. I think I was mistaken last year, and the 2010 will ultimately surpass the 2009. A Pingus of finesse. 98/100.
Peter Sisseck in a Danish winemaker who burst onto the scene in the mid 1990s with his small, exquisitely tended 4 ha estate in Spain's Ribera del Duero. Peter is nothing if not a master of Tempranillo grown at high altitude, and since its first vintage (1995) Pingus has gone on to become Spain's pre-eminent cult wine. Peter and his team also make a second label, Flor de Pingus, from Tempranillo grown around the small town of La Horra, just to the east of Dominio de Pingus. 'PSI' is Peter's latest project in Ribera del Duero, for which he has joined forces with local growers to make a wine which represents the pinnacle of old vine Tempranillo in the region. His attention to detail in the cellar is astonishing, where traditional winemaking techniques are combined with the precision of their in-house atomic laboratory. His wines have a unique style and grace.
Ribera del Duero
The Duero valley cuts a swathe across central northern Spain all the way to Portugal where it is called the Douro and is famous as the home of port. On the Spanish side, a relatively new but significant and exciting area for wine production has grown up around the city of Valladolid and was granted DO status in 1982. Ribera del Duero's potential was spotted long before in the middle of the 19th century at Bodegas Vega Sicilia, Spain's undisputed equivalent of a first growth Claret. High above sea-level, Ribera del Duero is an area of extreme temperatures with the potential to produce deep-coloured, intensely flavoured red wines from tempranillo grapes (known locally as tinto fino). The picture is not straightforward as some producers have started favouring an overly-extracted style which appeals to certain elements of the media. Additionally, often producers do not own their own vineyards, so the grape growers have a stranglehold on what to charge for their grapes and wine prices have risen dramatically as a result. However, many producers are making outstanding wines, which are still great value for money.