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Wine Advocate, August 2017,
In a word, the 2009 Barolo Riserva Villero is magic. I'm not sure I understand how Luca Currado does it. With his wizard's wand, he achieves a level of purity and intensity that I have rarely ever seen in Barolo or any other Italian appellation for that matter. The wine is centered and balanced at its core, but its aromas and flavors are absolutely explosive at the same time. The bouquet delivers dark fruit, tobacco, white truffle, balsam herb and grilled rosemary. The tannins are structured with a vein of supple sweetness. This wine undergoes malolactic fermentation in large barrel and is left to develop on the fine lees without racking. It is largely made in reduction to establish that crunchy and firm quality you feel in the mouth. This special Riserva was not made in 2008. However, it was produced in 2007, 2006, 2004, 2001, 1997, 1996, 1990, 1989 and 1982. Luca is planning to make it in 2013, and that's great news for all.
With Brunello in Tuscany, Barolo is undoubtedly Italy's finest wine producing region. Located in Piedmont in the north west of Iataly Barolo is comprised of 5 major communes - Barolo, Monteforte d'Alba, La Morra, Castiglione Falletto and Serralunga d'Alba - though the latter three tend to represent the main styles of the region. The wines are compelling and polished - an exemplary expression of the Nebbiolo grape. DOCG law requires a minimum ageing of 2 years in cask or barrel yet can be longer depending on the producer. Barolos are generally released four or more years after the vintage.