- Helmut Dönnhoff
- 2006 - 2030
- Case size
- Available Now
Wine Advocate, October 2008,
The 2006 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Beerenauslese is far more viscous, oily, and honeyed than the corresponding Auslese; the raspberries have candified now, and there is a gaudy gaggle of tropical fruits partying loudly as if just next door. The seamless purity of the Auslese, for all of that wine's energy, seems almost meditative in comparison, but all the more remarkable for it. Still,this prodigious elixir is every bit as citric, bright and penetrating as the Auslese and as it matures over the coming half century it may well reveal not only further facets, but also its underlying principle of organization. Right now, one can only be in awe of its sheer energy and concentration.
Dönnhoff is one the best producers in all of Germany and the estate is arguably the most famous outside of the Mosel valley. The family domaine dates from 1750 and is comprised of 28-hectares in the Nahe, a region located southeast of the Mosel. Its climate unexpectedly evokes the Mediterranean, and its soils are comparable to the Mosel with the addition of clay, though not as steep. The combination of these 2 elements seems to give the best of both worlds - the focus and minerality of the Mosel as well as the fleshy fruit of Germany's warmer regions. The vines have been passed on from father to son to grandson and now the fourth generation holds the reins. Cornelius Dönnhoff took over from his father Helmut in 2007 after 8 years of training. Cornelius continues his father's natural (and perfectionsit) winemaking philiopshy, producing wines of extraordinary power, concentration and complexity. Indeed, they are penetrating and tasting them is like listening to excerpts of the world's greatest arias. One cannot help but be reminded why German wines used to command the prices of first growth Bordeaux. Spellbinding and thought-provoking, they are worth discovering.
Nahe is located to the south east of the Mosel. Its climate unexpectedly evokes the Mediterranean, and its slate soils are comparable to the Mosel with the addition of clay, though not as steep. The combination of these two elements seems to give the best of both worlds - the focus and minerality of the Mosel as well as the fleshy fruit of Germany's warmer regions.