Morgeot is the largest premier cru in the Côte d’Or at 58 hectares, surpassing even Clos Vougeot (51 hectares). Forward and generous, this cuvée is full of warmth. The nose shows aromas of tropical fruits such as mango and guava. There is a mouthcoating volume, with a touch of glycerol and silky caramelised fruits. Quite lovely!
Aromas of smoky reduction and a deft application of wood can be found on the pear, apple and white peach-scented nose. The medium weight plus flavors are rich to the point of opulence while the sappy dry extract coats the palate on the powerful and nicely complex finale. I would describe this as a candidate for short to at most mid-term cellaring as I fear that it may become a bit ponderous with extended aging. Drink 2025+
Bruno’s estate is spread across an impressive 30+ different parcels in Chassagne Montrachet, Puligny Montrachet and St Aubin. From 2016 onwards, his portfolio includes Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Desmoiselles and Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru, passed down to him by his father, Michel, who has stepped into retirement (Michel Colin-Deleger’s estate was divided between his two sons, Bruno and Philippe). Bruno’s style blends Burgundy's tell-tale minerality with luxuriant fruit. The wines tend to display generous concentration with vibrant drive. Many have the potential to age beautifully but Bruno’s wines are also notable for their open approachability in youth. His wide range of Chassagne Montrachet premiers crus captures the diverse expression of the appellation.
The white wines of Chassagne Montrachet can be difficult to distinguish from Puligny. At their most typical they are slightly fleshier and more hedonistic, but are often just as mineral and refined making the two almost inseparable. When distinguishable, they offer notes of honeysuckle, lime blossom and honey. Many have become quite approachable when young. It is larger than Puligny with vineyards totalling over 330 hectares. Though it shares both the grand cru vineyards of Le Montrachet and Bâtard Montrachet, it has sole ownership of the miniscule Criots Bâtard Montrachet. Similar to Puligny, Chassagne also grows Pinot Noir, which can be austere when young. A small amount of red Chassagne is also made.