This represents the main production of the estate with the Pinsons owning an impressive 4.5 hectares of the cru. This year Laurent fermented 15% of the wine in oak (in a combination of new and 1 year old barrels) and the rest in stainless steel. Both parts were combined after malolactic fermentation and left to age in old oak fûts until bottling. This has a briny drive and a superb spectrum of orchard fruits. Its saline persistence sets it apart.
Here too there is a whiff of wood present on the expressive and vaguely exotic nose that offers up notes of algae, iodine, white peach and seaweed. As is usually the case with this wine there is excellent volume, power, muscle and mid-palate density to the medium-bodied flavors that coat the palate with dry extract on the almost painfully intense mineral-driven finish that flashes a bit of youthful austerity. This is terrific and offers excellent upside development potential. Sweet spot Outstanding. Drink: 2024+
Another highlight in this range, the 2017 Chablis Mont de Milieu 1er Cru sizzles with real tension and energy. The Mont de Milieu is not quite as expressive as some of the other wines in the range, but that won't be an issue in time. Dried pear, crushed rocks, mint and dried flowers all come alive in a Chablis endowed with terrific verve and plenty of stylishness. I loved it. Drink 2022-2032
Vinified in barrel, with 10% new wood, then 2-4 year old barrels for the elevage. Here the wood integrates very well, adding a dimension of intensity but not boisé. This is the flagship 1er cru delivering a fabulous wine on the palate, with some yellow fruit but particularly a mineral intensity throughout. The wood hardly shows at all, though it may return during the wine’s adolescence. Immense density behind. 4 stars.
The Pinson name is one of the most established in the town of Chablis; the family can trace its history there back to the 1640s. It is now run by brothers Christophe and Laurent, joined by Laurent’s daughter, Charlène. The family team oversee some of the finest parcels of old vines in the region from which they make extraordinarily fine and classical Chablis. They like to use oak barrels for maturation, although the influence of new oak is only ever a gentle whisper in the background of their steely wines. Their wines consistently show the raciness and elegance of fine Chablis.
Chablis is world famous for its fine white wines produced from the Chardonnay grape. The best vineyards are perched above the winding Serein river and are south or southwest facing ensuring better ripeness in this cooler climate. It has four appellation levels. Petit Chablis is the most modest and simple followed by Chablis, which is the largest and most prominent. Premier cru Chablis is the third largest appellation and encompasses almost 40 different climats or vineyards including the famed Montée de Tonnerre, Fourchaumes and Mont de Milieu. The most noble of all Chablis are the grand crus of which there are 7 climats in total Bougros, Les Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos and Blanchot. The wines of Chablis have remained some of the best value in the world, particularly their superb grand crus which can easily cost 50% less than its closest revered white grand cru neighbour, Corton Charlemagne.