A rare wine indeed: the only Aligoté 1er Cru in the Côte de Nuits, the vines having been planted before the 1936 laws. Medium lemon yellow. This has softer, richer, more buttery tones than the St Romain Blanc. Sweet apricots with their tangy bite show on the palate.
Knockout vibrant nose combines peach, crushed stone and spices, plus subtle nuances of mint, licorice, honey and flowers. Combines lovely richness with an impression of energy, displaying terrific spicy depth and saline soil tones. Finishes slatey and very long. Amazing Aligoté, from a normal yield of about 42 hectoliters per hectare. Beginning with the 2015 vintage, the estate has introduced some younger vines to the mix, so the blend now averages "just" 80 years of age and the label will say Vieilles Vignes rather than Très Vieilles Vignes. This east-facing vineyard avoids the afternoon sun, which allows the fruit to maintain freshness, noted Rose-Marie Ponsot, who added that the last vintage of this wine to contain any Chardonnay was 2004. And of course, the Pinot Blanc from Domaine Gouges that was planted here in the early 1950s is no longer in the wine.
Domaine Ponsot is an atypical but outstanding domaine in Morey St Denis. Their combination of late picking, destemming, and ageing in old oak barrels achieve the domaine’s distinctive style of long lived wines. Laurent Ponsot left the domaine in 2017, and the estate is now run by his sister, Rose Marie Ponsot. Alexandre Abel has joined the team as régisseur, and together they continue to uphold these three principles of the estate. Furthermore, they are not afraid to experiment, and are always evolving the viticulture and winemaking style with small innovations.
Morey St. Dénis often suffers from an identity crisis. They are more fruit forward than the wines of Gevrey Chambertin, yet more structured than those of Chambolle Musigny. It seems in this sensethat they are like middle children, always wanting to please yet not standing out as the noisy one or the notably quiet one. They are however crowd pleasers and for those who feel that Gevreys are too muscular and Chambolles too feminine; Moreys seem just right, offering velvety tannins and tangible fruit. The village offers five grand cru vineyards including Clos de la Roche, Clos St. Dénis and Clos des Lambrays which nonetheless can rival those of neighbouring villages in terms of quality (some even view them as the best in the Côte de Nuits) and various premier cru vineyards.