The 2015 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc offers scents of apple blossom, nutmeg and a touch of peach skin on the nose. The palate is well balanced with tangerine and grapefruit notes, a fine thread of acidity, white peach and a hint of caramelized pear towards the finish. Given how late this was picked relative to other growers, this is a great success. Drink 2017-2026
Domaine Ponsot is an atypical but outstanding domaine in Morey St Denis. Their combination of late picking, destemming, and ageing in old oak barrels achieve the domaine’s distinctive style of long lived wines. Laurent Ponsot left the domaine in 2017, and the estate is now run by his sister, Rose Marie Ponsot. Alexandre Abel has joined the team as régisseur, and together they continue to uphold these three principles of the estate. Furthermore, they are not afraid to experiment, and are always evolving the viticulture and winemaking style with small innovations.
Morey St. Dénis often suffers from an identity crisis. They are more fruit forward than the wines of Gevrey Chambertin, yet more structured than those of Chambolle Musigny. It seems in this sensethat they are like middle children, always wanting to please yet not standing out as the noisy one or the notably quiet one. They are however crowd pleasers and for those who feel that Gevreys are too muscular and Chambolles too feminine; Moreys seem just right, offering velvety tannins and tangible fruit. The village offers five grand cru vineyards including Clos de la Roche, Clos St. Dénis and Clos des Lambrays which nonetheless can rival those of neighbouring villages in terms of quality (some even view them as the best in the Côte de Nuits) and various premier cru vineyards.