Shining bright purple colour, this is a fresh vibrant wine, full of life and energy. Masses of flavours of raspberries and loganberries, this has great breadth and the sweet spiced finish, gives personality and real appeal at the end.
Moderate reduction is enough to push the earthy red berry fruit aromas to the background. There is good intensity to the detailed to the lighter weight flavors that possess good complexity and reasonably good length on the saline-inflected finish. Drink 2022+
The 2014 Morey St Denis Cuvée des Grives was showing just a small reduction on the nose when I tasted it, though one could still discern the tart red cherries mixed with red rose scents that gained intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with tensile tannin, a crisp line of acidity, a little brittle in the mouth but with a pleasant oyster-shell, marine-infused finish that is appealing. On the aftertaste, there is residue of white pepper with tang of licorice. Though it needs more harmony, it should be a fascinating 2014 once in bottle. Drink 2017-2030
Domaine Ponsot is an atypical but outstanding domaine in Morey St Denis. Their combination of late picking, destemming, and ageing in old oak barrels achieve the domaine’s distinctive style of long lived wines. Laurent Ponsot left the domaine in 2017, and the estate is now run by his sister, Rose Marie Ponsot. Alexandre Abel has joined the team as régisseur, and together they continue to uphold these three principles of the estate. Furthermore, they are not afraid to experiment, and are always evolving the viticulture and winemaking style with small innovations.
Morey St. Dénis often suffers from an identity crisis. They are more fruit forward than the wines of Gevrey Chambertin, yet more structured than those of Chambolle Musigny. It seems in this sensethat they are like middle children, always wanting to please yet not standing out as the noisy one or the notably quiet one. They are however crowd pleasers and for those who feel that Gevreys are too muscular and Chambolles too feminine; Moreys seem just right, offering velvety tannins and tangible fruit. The village offers five grand cru vineyards including Clos de la Roche, Clos St. Dénis and Clos des Lambrays which nonetheless can rival those of neighbouring villages in terms of quality (some even view them as the best in the Côte de Nuits) and various premier cru vineyards.