(the mix of this wine has changed as 90% of it is now from Bressandes with the remainder from Les Chaumes). While there is a touch of melon character present here as well it is a good deal more subtle and doesn’t impede the clarity of the pear, green apple, citrus and lilac scents. There is notably more volume and mid-palate concentration to the big-bodied and muscular flavors that possess both excellent richness and punch, all wrapped in a complex if rustic finale. This won’t win any awards for refinement but I like the frank character and overall delivery. Drink 2020+
The 2014 Corton Blanc Grand Cru, which is mainly from Bressandes, has a detailed bouquet with almond and dried quince infusing the citrus fruit, a touch of orange cordial developing behind. The palate is well balanced with quite open and rich tropical-toned fruit, a dab of shaved ginger with a chalky, quite tensile finish. Very fine and a grand cru I suspect will give pleasure early on in its life. Drink 2017-2025
This is rich and full on the nose, but reserved too…but just bottled last week. There are notes of ripe pear…not at all citrus..much more white pear with a hint of spice. A full and rounded palate, generous and juicy and really quite succulent. After the broad girth, this focuses and becomes much more tense and fresh on the finish…not acidity, more a cold earthy minerality.
The sibling team at this stunning domaine (Francois and Claude de Nicolay) is most definitely a winning one. Their biggest influence has been to convert the estate firstly to organic and now to biodynamic methods of viticulture and vinification. The wines focus on sensual flavours and refinement, these are not powerful, but the aged vines allow for wines of extraordinary texture and complexity.
As legend goes, Charlemagne, king of the Franks, ordered Chardonnay planted in the vineyard of Corton during his reign in the 8th century so as he would not stain his light-coloured beard during moments of great thirst. This may be mere romantic fallacy, but what cannot be denied is the exceptional quality of this Grand Cru appellation in Aloxe Corton in the Cote de Beaune.