The 2013 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has that citrus-like freshness; that Seville orange marmalade trait that was tangible in a range of mature Clos des Ducs tasted the previous week. There are touches of violet that emerge with continued aeration. The palate is very feminine and refined, laid back almost, but that distracts from the structure underneath and the persistence and minerality on the finish. This is a regal, perhaps one should say, "ducal," Clos des Ducs that should drink beautifully over the next 25-30 years. But as I discovered at the vertical, this vineyard needs several years in the cellar. Drink: 2020 - 2040
This has a depth of ripe, fresh fruit and intensity. The texture is satin; it has a lovely fluidity; the coolness of the core is here too. The contained potential…contained energy. The minerals are enveloped in the soft tannins in the mid palate, but come though colder and chalkier on the finish. Intense and pure and very long. Score 18.85. From 2022
A red wine appellation only, wines from Volnay might be considered the most revered of southern Burgundy. They have been celebrated since the 18th century for their delicacy. But they are not fruit forward like those of Beaune or Chorey Lès Beaune nor have the brooding structure of Pommard.Instead, they have superb linearity, focus and poise while sheathed in velvety tannin. This slightly reticent personality comes out even more with a bit of age, though some can be approached very young. There are no grand cru vineyards in Volnay, but there are some excellent premier cru examples including Volnay Les Champans and Volnay Les Caillerets. Chardonnay grown in the shared Santenots vineyard must be labelled as Meursault.