2013 was a difficult vintage to get right in Burgundy, but in this village Meursault Jean-Philippe has produced excellent wines. There is the gentle nuance of French oak toast and salty reduction on the nose, and the palate has the classic savoury richness of the village with stone fruit freshness on the length. This delivers an excellent portrait of Meursault with a few years’ bottle age.
With a creamy, buttery brioche nose, this is a full and mouth coating style, balancing its smooth texture with a lovely clementine orange citrus character. Fresh and vibrant on the finish.
This is admirably funk-free with its lightly oaky and high-toned nose of white and yellow orchard fruit, spice, nutty and subtle floral nuances. There is fine detail to the attractively understated minerally middle weight flavors that are striking in their purity, all wrapped in a long, linear and quite finely balanced finish. This is on the refined side and delivers lovely quality for a villages level wine. 89-91/100. 2019-2024
This is fruity on the attack and has a lightly rounded mid palate, quite lively too. A lighter balance; rather an elegant silky textured fragrant Meursault. Score 15.75. From 2016 He says, “I am very happy with this blend…. It has a good balance, not as acidic and needing age as the top lieux-dits and not as rich as the bottom, both of which are better as a blend.”
This has got to be the most well organised cellar in the Côte de Beaune. Jean-Philippe’s attention to detail in his winery is a good indication of his handling of fruit, and goes some way to explaining the precise and distinct characteristics found in his wines each possessing their own unique timbre. These wines are made with great care and patience, and all enjoy 12 months in barrel (he tends to use larger 600 litre demi-muids rather than the traditional 228 litre pièces) followed by a further 6 months on fine lees in tank. His painstaking attention to detail is demonstrated in his wines, which are pure and seamless. Though most of his wines are only village lieux dits, they could easily be mistaken for premiers crus.
Meursault is the first great white wine area that one stumbles upon on leaving Beaune. Unlike other white dominated appellations in Burgundy, Meursault has no grand cru vineyards. It nonetheless has significant flair and power which make up for this deficiency. Indeed, if tasted blind some of these wines could even surpass other Burgundian grand crus. They are no fainting daisies. This may partially be due to Meursault's lower water table which enables the roots to delve deep in the soil picking up many trace minerals and which further stresses the vines. In addition, the cellars are more profound and cooler, enabling long fermentations, which increase complexity and longevity. Some interesting red wines are also made.