A wine of great concentration and intensity, quite a masculine style for Volnay, with plenty of what the French call “matière”. A wine which is full of fruit, structure and length. Very good and complex on the finish.
The 2012 Volnay 1er Cru Fremiet comes from shallow soils, a 1.58-hectare parcel just behind the maison whose oldest vines date back to 1955. It has a well-defined, nicely focused bouquet with hints of cassis infusing the red berry fruit profile. The palate is balanced with obdurate tannins that lend the Fremiet a masculine persona. It is broody at the moment but the saline finish is very welcome.
Arriving at the family Château in Volnay and standing in the famed Clos des Ducs overlooking the village and its other 1er crus below always gives me a huge thrill. This is everything that Burgundy is all about; history dating back to 1507, and back to 1804 for the Angerville family and their ancestors, great breeding in some of the finest vineyards in the Cote d'Or and finally anability to make Pinot Noir at its very purist and best.
A red wine appellation only, wines from Volnay might be considered the most revered of southern Burgundy. They have been celebrated since the 18th century for their delicacy. But they are not fruit forward like those of Beaune or Chorey Lès Beaune nor have the brooding structure of Pommard.Instead, they have superb linearity, focus and poise while sheathed in velvety tannin. This slightly reticent personality comes out even more with a bit of age, though some can be approached very young. There are no grand cru vineyards in Volnay, but there are some excellent premier cru examples including Volnay Les Champans and Volnay Les Caillerets. Chardonnay grown in the shared Santenots vineyard must be labelled as Meursault.