Gerard’s favourite 1er Cru of the domaine’s line up and tasting this stunning 2012 one can see why. There is almost a Grand Cru feeling of composure, balancing a broad rich mouth feel with a touch of exotic sweetness with a long clinical finish.
This is slightly more aromatically elegant than the Champ Canet yet not quite as ripe as there is only a trace of exoticism to the acacia blossom and white orchard fruit aromas that include spice hints. There is excellent volume to the concentrated medium-bodied flavors that possess a wonderfully refined mouth feel though in contrast to what I typically find with the Sauzet Combettes it is not necessarily the most complex and complete 1er in the range. It is of course possible that this impeccably well-balanced effort will prove itself yet again but at present the Champ Canet and Perrières are every bit as interesting. 92/2020+
The 2012 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes comes from a single hectare on the Meursault side close to Dominique Lafon’s Charmes. This has a very attractive bouquet with light scents of flint, gypsum and bruised apple that expands nicely in the glass with aeration. The palate is nicely focused with touches of bitter lemon and dried orange peel that segues into a stony, flinty finish that is perhaps atypical for this, habitually one of their fattest premier crus. The bottom line is that this is a commendable wine for the vintage, though this year, not my pick of the bunch.
Etienne Sauzet is one of the most famous domaines in Puligny Montrachet along with Domaine Leflaive and Louis Carillon. Created by Etienne from family vines, over time he purchased additional vineyards until it grew to 12 hectares in 1950. When Etienne passed away in 1975, his daughter Jeanine and her husband, Gerard Boudot, took over the domaine. Due to family inheritance, the domaine decreased to 7 hectares which only made the wine even more rare! Today, they are helped by their dynamic daughter, Emilie, and her husband, Benoît Riffault.
Puligny Montrachet is known as the most delicate of the white wine appellations south of Beaune.Its wines tend to be linear and mineral offering delicate floral and orchard fruit aromatics. Its village and premier cru vineyard area total slightly over 200 hectares but almost half of them are premier cru making them one of the highest proportions of quality vineyards in the Côte de Beaune. Several grand cru vineyards are present, the most notable being Le Montrachet and Bâtard Montrachetwhich it shares with neighbouring Chassagne, but it does have the extraordinary Chevalier Montrachet and the tiny Bienvenues Bâtard Montrachet all to itself. There are a handful of red wines grown, but they tend to be quite light and need to be drunk in their youth.