Not yet bottled when I last tasted it in April, Brocard’s 2008 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre leads with apple and diverse citrus aromas that anticipate its tart, bright palate impression. The cut and energy on display as well as the chalky mineral sense and firm feel conduce to a certain severity, but there is such a sense of vivacity and energy as well as an invigorating impingement of fruit skins and pungent spices in the finish as to win one over and leave one looking forward to this wine’s evolution over the next half dozen or more years.
Chablis is world famous for its fine white wines produced from the Chardonnay grape. The best vineyards are perched above the winding Serein river and are south or southwest facing ensuring better ripeness in this cooler climate. It has four appellation levels. Petit Chablis is the most modest and simple followed by Chablis, which is the largest and most prominent. Premier cru Chablis is the third largest appellation and encompasses almost 40 different climats or vineyards including the famed Montée de Tonnerre, Fourchaumes and Mont de Milieu. The most noble of all Chablis are the grand crus of which there are 7 climats in total Bougros, Les Preuses, Vaudésir, Grenouilles, Valmur, Les Clos and Blanchot. The wines of Chablis have remained some of the best value in the world, particularly their superb grand crus which can easily cost 50% less than its closest revered white grand cru neighbour, Corton Charlemagne.