En Primeur | William Fevre
William Fèvre is one of the great names of Chablis, however, in comparison to many estates in the region, William himself was a relative newcomer. He produced his first crop in 1959 and swiftly built up the estate to have substantial holdings in the town of Chablis. By 1998, the year that Champagne legend Joseph Henriot purchased the domaine, it had grown to 48 hectares. During his life, Joseph Henriot further expanded the estate, and today they are making superb benchmark Chablis from 78 hectares of vineyards, including 16 hectares of 1ers Crus and 15 hectares of Grands Crus.
2021 Chablis Domaine William Fèvre
£110.00 In Bond £148.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
A benchmark wine reflecting the classic characteristics of village Chablis. William Fèvre owns 47 hectares over 40 different sites within the appellation. A maximum of 10% of the blend is barrel fermented, ensuring the steely brightness of Chablis shines through. Lemon and lime tinge in colour.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 88-91
Notes of mineral reduction and quinine add breadth to the aromas of green apple, lemon-lime and discreet floral nuances. There is slightly better density to the attractively textured medium-bodied flavors that are even more saline-inflected on the balanced, dry and lingering finale. A quality Chablis villages. Drink 2025+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 87-89
A little more depth of colour, and a slightly richer style of fruit, including some fresh plums. 7-8% wood for vinification. More aquiline on the palate though retains its rounder style, with good acidity however which pulls the finish out rather further. Drink from 2024-2027.
2021 Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy William Fèvre
£235.00 In Bond £298.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
The Fèvre parcel of this left bank Premier Cru sits within the more distinctive sub-climat of Troësmes. The fruit is vinified in stainless steel and then 30% matured in barrel. With an earthy attack, this has a chewy, fruit skin-contact styled texture, tremendous mineral energy and a refreshing line of salinity at the end.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 89-92
This is ripe enough to have elusive suggestions of exotic fruit on the white peach, maritime and quinine. There is excellent mid-palate density to the rich, delicious and solidly intense middleweight flavors that conclude in an agreeably dry and again, very saline-suffused finish. This will need to add depth to achieve the upper end of my projected range, but it could well do that. Drink 2026+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 91-93
William Fevre have just over a hectare consisting of three plots at the Beauroy end of Troëmes, where the grapes need to be picked early. 30% currently under wood after vinification. Very elegant, quite forward as is typical of this terroir, attractively nuanced fruit first, some salinity behind, especially at the finish. Never a blockbuster, but the 2021 Beauroy is fine. Drink from 2025-2029.
2021 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros William Fèvre
£200.00 In Bond £248.04 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
William Fèvre own 6 hectares within Bougros and makes two different cuvées. This wine comes from a 4-hectare parcel of old vines planted by William’s father in the 1940s and 1950s. Pannacotta, toffee and Jersey cream all mixed together make for a hugely pleasing style. Generous, full and flowing, less mineral than some, a real temptress, joyous and long-lasting finish.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 91-94
This is also aromatically reserved though determined swirling slowly reveals smoky aromas of green fruit, citrus and mineral reduction. The dense and very powerful big-bodied flavors flash plenty of muscle on the palate drenching and hugely long finish. This isn’t refined, in fact it’s rustic but it is undoubtedly impressive in its fashion. Drink 2031+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 91-94
From old vines of around 60-65 years on average. Fresh pale colour with a light green tint. Clear pale colour, slightly smoky, good volume of fruit, the smoke coming out in the mouth as reduction on the seashells. Solid weight here, plus the minerals as well. Pretty good intensity across the piece with density at the back. Drink from 2027-2033.
2021 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent William Fèvre
£325.00 In Bond £406.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Premier Cru Vaulorent is a sub-climat of Fourchaume, and William Fèvre’s parcel is advantageously positioned adjacent to Grand Cru Les Preuses and an impressive 3.6 hectares in total. A perfume of spring flowers, satsuma and grated orange peel. The initial elegance of flavours recedes as the power and bold structure start to explode in the mouth. It gives the impression of a Grand Cru style, with so much depth, and the freshly baked baguette character at the end gives it huge appeal. Sumptuous and very delicious.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 92-94
From a huge 3.63 ha parcel out of only 17 ha and most of it is hard by Les Preuses. Séguier calls this their “baby grand cru” as specific barrels are selected for vine age, concentration and power. A much less expressive nose, indeed it is all but mute, requires aggressive swirling to eventually coax aromas of white orchard fruit, citrus blossom and seawater. The richer and slightly more powerful flavors also possess a sophisticated mouthfeel along with excellent depth and persistence on the balanced finale where a touch of youthful austerity slowly emerges. In a word, terrific. Drink 2031+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 92-94
This sample represents the whole of it, but Didier may select some out to make a Fourchaumes bottling as well. 32 hl/ha overall. Fully cloudy at the moment, with an opaque white fruit on the nose, and more of the fresh pears. At the moment the class shows more in the volume on the palate, where there is real density and then a fine youthful bitterness at the end. This is loaded towards the back of the palate, always a good sign. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted: June 2022
2021 Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre William Fèvre
£335.00 In Bond £418.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2022
Always highly prized, Montée de Tonnerre neighbours the seven Grands Crus vineyards. Fèvre owns three plots amounting to 2 hectares, with the oldest parcel near Blanchot planted in 1936. Fresh pear and Pink Lady apple scent, the palate builds in terms of richness and earthy terroir depth. A lovely, composed nature to this wine, not necessarily powerful, but steely and lively.
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Burghound, October 2022, Score: 92-94
A discreet dollop of wood sets off the equally cool and perhaps even slightly more elegant aromas of acacia, citrus, seashore and oyster shell. The sleek and highly sophisticated medium-bodied flavors possess a really lovely texture while delivering superb length on the bitter lemon and mineral-suffused finish. This beautifully balanced effort is crystalline in its purity and a wine that should repay a decade plus of keeping. Drink 2031+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 91-94
Still cloudy after racking. Didier describes the blend as including Chapelot, for sunshine, Pied d’Aloue on marl for freshness, while the Côte de Bréchain provides concentration from the oldest vines (1936). The 2021 Montée de Tonnerre has a very classy nose, without the now habitual sunny yellow fruit, cooler and fresher. All a little bit unknit after racking but the component parts are clearly there, with excellent fresh acidity and length. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted: June 2022
2021 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos William Fèvre
£325.00 In Bond £398.04 Inc VAT-
Burghound, October 2022, Score: 93-96
This too could be from nowhere else other than Chablis with its combination of strong mineral reduction, cool citrus, shellfish and iodine. The dense, opulent and powerful large-bodied flavors brim with dry extract that imparts a sappy texture to the lemony and massively long finish. Not surprisingly for a classic Les Clos, this super effort is very much built-to-age and a wine that I would advise not touching for at least 6 to 8 years first. Drink 2033+
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Jasper Morris MW, December 2022, Score: 92-96
The vineyard was largely planted by William Fèvre’s father in the decade after the war. The 2021 Les Clos was made with 40% wood, but has recently been racked and assembled, so not clear. This is relatively classical with the effortlessly superior bouquet of Les Clos. A softer rounder style of fruit here. Additional intensity though behind, with a deep white fruit, liquorice and still some youthful bitters to complete. Drink from 2028-2036. Tasted: June 2022
