En Primeur | Volnay
A red wine appellation only, wines from Volnay might be considered the most revered of southern Burgundy. They have been celebrated since the 18th century for their delicacy. But they are not fruit forward like those of Beaune or Chorey Lès Beaune nor have the brooding structure of Pommard. Instead, they have superb linearity, focus and poise while sheathed in velvety tannin. There are no Grand Cru vineyards, but there are some excellent Premier Cru examples including Volnay Les Champans and Volnay Les Caillerets.
2020 Volnay Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£150.00 In Bond £196.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
From vines averaging 60 years in age, Nicolas says this wine shows the charms of a “solar year”. Plum and morello cherry on the nose. With a rewarding intensity and sweetness, this has an easy mid-palate richness. The tannins are rounded with a pleasing subtlety and easy finish.
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Matthew Jukes, January 2022, Score: 16.5+
Decent, rather straightforward and a little firm on the finish, this is a good effort for an inexpensive wine.
2020 Volnay Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£165.00 In Bond £214.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
From vines averaging 60 years in age, Nicolas says this wine shows the charms of a “solar year”. Plum and morello cherry on the nose. With a rewarding intensity and sweetness, this has an easy mid-palate richness. The tannins are rounded with a pleasing subtlety and easy finish.
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Matthew Jukes, January 2022, Score: 16.5+
Decent, rather straightforward and a little firm on the finish, this is a good effort for an inexpensive wine.
2020 Volnay Origines Nicolas Rossignol
£230.00 In Bond £292.07 Inc VAT-
Burghound, April 2022, Score: 89-92
Background hints of wood and menthol surround the ripe aromas of poached plum, cassis and pretty floral wisps. The suave, round, sappy and seductively textured middle weight flavors exude a subtle minerality on the slightly more complex and equally structured finale. This sneaky long effort possesses first-rate quality for its level, and this is one to look for. Outstanding. Drink 2028+
2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de Angles Nicolas Rossignol
£295.00 In Bond £370.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
Clos des Angles is a warm vineyard sitting beneath Clos des Duc. Made with 60% whole bunch, the ripe, spiced dark fruit comes through on the palate. An energetic wine with layers of nutmeg and new leather. Round and full, with intense sweet black fruit on the finish.
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Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 86-88
Containing 60% whole cluster, the 2020 Volnay Clos des Angles 1er Cru felt a little reduced on the nose, touches of violet and peony emerging. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, slightly lower acidity with a slightly blocky finish. Drink 2024 - 2037
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Burghound, April 2022, Score: 91-93
This is also overtly floral in character with its aromas of violet, rose petal, lavender, black raspberry and anise whiffs. There is excellent intensity to the lacy medium weight flavors that flash plenty of soil tones on the refined, focused and sneaky long finale where a hint of bitter pit fruit slowly emerges. This is lovely and very Volnay in style. Outstanding. Drink 2028+
2020 Volnay Vieilles Vignes Jean-Marc Bouley
£298.00 In Bond £373.67 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
These really are old vines, aged between 45 – 83 years, in a superb plot of village Volnay sitting just below 1er Cru Les Carelles. This is a warm site with high iron content in the soil. With a mass of plush dark berry fruits, this is tremendously rich and juicy. The 90% whole bunch character contributes some spice and a rewarding textured core. Full and very long.
2020 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots Nicolas Rossignol
£375.00 In Bond £466.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
Nicolas has two different vineyard plots in this fine 1er Cru. The younger 20-year-old parcel borders Volnay and the older 70-year-old parcel lies beside Meursault. He describes it as a Volnay with Côte de Nuits DNA. In 2020, it is one of the higher alcohol cuvées in his cellars, but the structured breadth and full fruit support it. The bright lift of acidity on the finish keeps the palate perfectly refreshed.
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Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 87-89
The 2020 Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru is completely de-stemmed. Quite rich and confit-like on the nose, this offers mulberry/dark plum aromas that just feel a little muffled. The palate is shows a little more restraint and focus, fine grip and good acidity, with a slight savoriness towards the finish. Drink 2025 - 2042
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Burghound, April 2022, Score: 92-95
A ripe yet cool nose also features an abundance of spice elements along with notes of poached plum, warm earth and a whiff of the sauvage. The larger-scaled, concentrated and intensely mineral-driven flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract that helps to buffer the very firm tannic spine shaping the hugely long finale. This should age effortlessly for years, indeed it should see its 30th anniversary in fine form. Sweet spot. Outstanding. Drink 2035+
2020 Volnay 1er Cru Chevret Nicolas Rossignol
£395.00 In Bond £490.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
This vineyard lies at the foot of Les Caillerets, but its soil composition is quite different; more clay and pebbles result in a fuller, broader style of Volnay. Nicolas chose to use 30% whole bunch, resulting in an attractive spiced Alpine fruit character, with scents of cola and cinnamon. The soft tannins flow into a delicate mineral note which refreshes the palate. Very fine.
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Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 89-91
The 2020 Volnay Chevret 1er Cru contains 30% whole cluster fruit, cropped at just 12hl/ha. It has an intense nose of blueberry and black cherry fruit, but shows a little more delineation than other cuvées. The palate is ripe and sweet, quite focused and delineated with a succulent cassis and blueberry finish. Drink 2025 - 2042
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Burghound, April 2022, Score: 91-94
Like the Clos des Angles, the expressive nose is exuberantly floral in character with its array of cassis, wild red currant, raspberry and jasmine tea scented aromas. The rich, elegant and energetic medium-bodied flavors possess ample punch on the palate drenching finish that flashes first-rate depth and persistence on the balanced finale. This is a classic Chevrets of refinement and style. Sweet spot. Outstanding. Drink 2030+
2020 Volnay 1er Cru Les Carelles Jean-Marc Bouley
£525.00 In Bond £646.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
The soil at the vineyard is a red mix of clay and iron and its wines always have a bold confidence. A very open style, with a mass of bramble fruits, this has a delicious volume and is full on the palate. A finish of mocha and lively freshness. Everything is in harmony.
