En Primeur | Volnay
A red wine appellation only, wines from Volnay might be considered the most revered of southern Burgundy. They have been celebrated since the 18th century for their delicacy. But they are not fruit forward like those of Beaune or Chorey Lès Beaune nor have the brooding structure of Pommard. Instead, they have superb linearity, focus and poise while sheathed in velvety tannin. There are no Grand Cru vineyards, but there are some excellent Premier Cru examples including Volnay Les Champans and Volnay Les Caillerets.
2020 Volnay Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£150.00 In Bond £196.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
From vines averaging 60 years in age, Nicolas says this wine shows the charms of a “solar year”. Plum and morello cherry on the nose. With a rewarding intensity and sweetness, this has an easy mid-palate richness. The tannins are rounded with a pleasing subtlety and easy finish.
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Matthew Jukes, January 2022, Score: 16.5+
Decent, rather straightforward and a little firm on the finish, this is a good effort for an inexpensive wine.
2020 Volnay Vieilles Vignes Maison Roche de Bellene
£165.00 In Bond £214.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
From vines averaging 60 years in age, Nicolas says this wine shows the charms of a “solar year”. Plum and morello cherry on the nose. With a rewarding intensity and sweetness, this has an easy mid-palate richness. The tannins are rounded with a pleasing subtlety and easy finish.
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Matthew Jukes, January 2022, Score: 16.5+
Decent, rather straightforward and a little firm on the finish, this is a good effort for an inexpensive wine.
2020 Volnay Comte Armand
£220.00 In Bond £280.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
This wine comes from two different locations in the appellation: Les Grands Champs which provides finesse and elegance, while Les Famines is credited with body and power. A little reserved on the nose, the palate shows off the wine’s grace and depth. Refined and pure with raspberry and loganberry fruits. The tannins are silky, whilst also giving a touch of grip on the finish. Superb all round.
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Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 89-91
The 2020 Volnay Village has a refined, quite intense cassis and black cherry nose, quite high toned but managing to retain its delineation. The palate is quite intense but pure with blood orange infused red fruit, gentle grip towards the slightly brittle finish, quite spicy on the aftertaste. Give this 3-5 years in bottle. Drink 2025 - 2040
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Burghound, April 2022, Score: 89-91
A very ripe yet still nicely fresh nose combines notes of poached plum, dark cherry, spice and a touch of warm earth. There is very good density to the robust and muscular middle weight flavors that offer solid depth and persistence on the lightly rustic finale. Very good quality here for its level. Outstanding. Drink 2026+
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Jasper Morris MW, January 2022, Score: 88-91
Dark centre with purple rim. The bouquet is not as over the top as either Auxey, this is much finer in all its expressions, ripe tannins, just a little acidity, a smooth ripe deep raspberry fruit with excellent length. Malolactic happened earlier here so the wine is in a better position to taste. 14.2%
2020 Volnay Origines Nicolas Rossignol
£230.00 In Bond £292.07 Inc VAT-
Burghound, April 2022, Score: 89-92
Background hints of wood and menthol surround the ripe aromas of poached plum, cassis and pretty floral wisps. The suave, round, sappy and seductively textured middle weight flavors exude a subtle minerality on the slightly more complex and equally structured finale. This sneaky long effort possesses first-rate quality for its level, and this is one to look for. Outstanding. Drink 2028+
2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes Domaine Louis Jadot
£275.00 In Bond £346.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
Deep black olive colour, this is full of dark morello cherry and black fruit flavours. Quite a dense wine reflecting the high iron content in the Clos des Chenes soil. This has superb structure, the firmness in character perfectly balances the sweet blackberry fruit flavours. Excellent strength and satisfyingly long flavours.
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Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 91-93
The 2020 Volnay Clos des Chênes 1er Cru comprises of one 456-litre barrel this year. It has a very well-defined bouquet with seamlessly integrated oak and impressive mineralité. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine delineation, just a little chewiness on the entry but there is tension interwoven into this Volnay from start to finish, plus great persistency. Superb. Drink 2025 - 2042
2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos de Angles Nicolas Rossignol
£295.00 In Bond £370.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
Clos des Angles is a warm vineyard sitting beneath Clos des Duc. Made with 60% whole bunch, the ripe, spiced dark fruit comes through on the palate. An energetic wine with layers of nutmeg and new leather. Round and full, with intense sweet black fruit on the finish.
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Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 86-88
Containing 60% whole cluster, the 2020 Volnay Clos des Angles 1er Cru felt a little reduced on the nose, touches of violet and peony emerging. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, slightly lower acidity with a slightly blocky finish. Drink 2024 - 2037
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Burghound, April 2022, Score: 91-93
This is also overtly floral in character with its aromas of violet, rose petal, lavender, black raspberry and anise whiffs. There is excellent intensity to the lacy medium weight flavors that flash plenty of soil tones on the refined, focused and sneaky long finale where a hint of bitter pit fruit slowly emerges. This is lovely and very Volnay in style. Outstanding. Drink 2028+
2020 Volnay 1er Cru Les Mitans Benjamin Leroux
£366.00 In Bond £455.27 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
Mitans derives from the old French word for middle or centre, aptly for this cru which lies at the foot of the slope just beneath the village, directly in the heart of the appellation. The soil here is fine clay creating a very composed wine. Plenty of earthy, wild bramble fruits. It is deeply structured, with a chewy mouthfeel and will age extremely well.
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Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 90-92
The 2020 Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru has a generous bouquet with red cherries, blackcurrant and violet aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, quite spicy with white pepper and clove notes towards the finish. Very fine, but it needs time.
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Matthew Jukes, January 2022, Score: 17.5
I like this, and it seems that Ben’s affinity with Volnay continues with this lovely vintage. Floral, layered and classy, this is a more expensive wine, but it is justified with a millefeuille of red and black fruit and a tender texture.
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Jasper Morris MW, January 2022, Score: 88-91
From the Ormeau part of Mitans. Very dark colour. Ripe fruit with a sundried element, quite dark fruit for Volnay, but the tannins are ripe and the acidity is lower. Medium density and persistence
2020 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots Nicolas Rossignol
£375.00 In Bond £466.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
Nicolas has two different vineyard plots in this fine 1er Cru. The younger 20-year-old parcel borders Volnay and the older 70-year-old parcel lies beside Meursault. He describes it as a Volnay with Côte de Nuits DNA. In 2020, it is one of the higher alcohol cuvées in his cellars, but the structured breadth and full fruit support it. The bright lift of acidity on the finish keeps the palate perfectly refreshed.
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Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 87-89
The 2020 Volnay Les Santenots 1er Cru is completely de-stemmed. Quite rich and confit-like on the nose, this offers mulberry/dark plum aromas that just feel a little muffled. The palate is shows a little more restraint and focus, fine grip and good acidity, with a slight savoriness towards the finish. Drink 2025 - 2042
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Burghound, April 2022, Score: 92-95
A ripe yet cool nose also features an abundance of spice elements along with notes of poached plum, warm earth and a whiff of the sauvage. The larger-scaled, concentrated and intensely mineral-driven flavors coat the palate with sappy dry extract that helps to buffer the very firm tannic spine shaping the hugely long finale. This should age effortlessly for years, indeed it should see its 30th anniversary in fine form. Sweet spot. Outstanding. Drink 2035+
2020 Volnay 1er Cru Chevret Nicolas Rossignol
£395.00 In Bond £490.07 Inc VAT-
Goedhuis, December 2021
This vineyard lies at the foot of Les Caillerets, but its soil composition is quite different; more clay and pebbles result in a fuller, broader style of Volnay. Nicolas chose to use 30% whole bunch, resulting in an attractive spiced Alpine fruit character, with scents of cola and cinnamon. The soft tannins flow into a delicate mineral note which refreshes the palate. Very fine.
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Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 89-91
The 2020 Volnay Chevret 1er Cru contains 30% whole cluster fruit, cropped at just 12hl/ha. It has an intense nose of blueberry and black cherry fruit, but shows a little more delineation than other cuvées. The palate is ripe and sweet, quite focused and delineated with a succulent cassis and blueberry finish. Drink 2025 - 2042
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Burghound, April 2022, Score: 91-94
Like the Clos des Angles, the expressive nose is exuberantly floral in character with its array of cassis, wild red currant, raspberry and jasmine tea scented aromas. The rich, elegant and energetic medium-bodied flavors possess ample punch on the palate drenching finish that flashes first-rate depth and persistence on the balanced finale. This is a classic Chevrets of refinement and style. Sweet spot. Outstanding. Drink 2030+
