Goedhuis, December 2021
The Aligoté grape variety is going through something of a resurgence. Gone are the days of a variety that struggled to achieve optimal ripeness. This grape is maximising its potential thanks to the current weather conditions and gaining newfound recognition. The Comte Armand wine is a fine example; full of walnuts and hazelnuts, with a bright lime fruit character, this has both intensity and length.
Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 85-87
The 2020 Bourgogne Aligoté comes from three parcels had been racked the previous week, aged 50% in tank and 50% in 500-litre barrels. It has a perfumed, lavender-tinged bouquet. The palate is fresh and lemony on the entry, touches of pear and lime, simple but fresh and with a dab of ginger on the finish. Fine. Drink 2022 - 2026
Jasper Morris MW, Janaury 2022, Score: 87-88
Big crop picked 16th September, below Pommard and Volnay and Meursault. Made half and half in 600 litre barrels and stainless steel. A little deeper in colour and indeed in bouquet than the Chardonnay. Apple and fresh quince, mostly young vine produce, but this is absolutely delicious, and sweeps through to a long finish.
Goedhuis, December 2021
A deeper, darker fruited style of Auxey Duresses this vintage. A wine with wild forest fruit flavours, and a striking amount of sweet gamey fruits. The tannins are pronounced and structured, giving great body and depth to this very interesting cuvée.
Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 87-89
The 2020 Auxey-Duresses Village has just a tiny amount of whole bunch fruit. It has quite a precocious bouquet with ample blueberry and black cherry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet entry, high-toned inky cassis fruit with a sweet, citric finish. Give this two or three years in bottle. Drink 2024 - 2032
Burghound, April 2022, Score: 88-90
Moderate reduction renders the nose difficult to assess though there is excellent freshness and vibrancy to the nicely detailed and more mineral-inflected flavors that conclude in a mildly rustic and youthfully austere finale. Some patience should be beneficial as this is fairly tightly wound at present. Drink 2026+
Jasper Morris MW, January 2022, Score: 86-88
Dark purple centre with a gorgeous plump deep raspberry fruit. Seductive and juicy, just shows a bit of extra richness at the back. Just finished malolactic, neither racked nor sulphured, so understandably ungainly. Enough acidity to compensate for the 14.5% alcohol.
Goedhuis, December 2021
This wine comes from two different locations in the appellation: Les Grands Champs which provides finesse and elegance, while Les Famines is credited with body and power. A little reserved on the nose, the palate shows off the wine’s grace and depth. Refined and pure with raspberry and loganberry fruits. The tannins are silky, whilst also giving a touch of grip on the finish. Superb all round.
Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 89-91
The 2020 Volnay Village has a refined, quite intense cassis and black cherry nose, quite high toned but managing to retain its delineation. The palate is quite intense but pure with blood orange infused red fruit, gentle grip towards the slightly brittle finish, quite spicy on the aftertaste. Give this 3-5 years in bottle. Drink 2025 - 2040
Burghound, April 2022, Score: 89-91
A very ripe yet still nicely fresh nose combines notes of poached plum, dark cherry, spice and a touch of warm earth. There is very good density to the robust and muscular middle weight flavors that offer solid depth and persistence on the lightly rustic finale. Very good quality here for its level. Outstanding. Drink 2026+
Jasper Morris MW, January 2022, Score: 88-91
Dark centre with purple rim. The bouquet is not as over the top as either Auxey, this is much finer in all its expressions, ripe tannins, just a little acidity, a smooth ripe deep raspberry fruit with excellent length. Malolactic happened earlier here so the wine is in a better position to taste. 14.2%
Goedhuis, December 2021
It is always fascinating to taste this wine from cask. Paul splits the Clos into two separate cuvées for vinification, ageing the young and old vines separately, completing the blending just ahead of bottling. Tasting separately shows the individual strengths and then afterwards he shows an approximate blend indicating the wine’s true colours. Deep, dark black cherry in colour, there are distinctive rich dark autumnal fruits. Very broad and intense with firm tannic structure, tremendous poise and fabulous length. An absolute masterclass in quality and terroir.
Neal Martin, December 2021, Score: 92-94
Burghound, April 2022, Score: 91-94
Discreet but not invisible wood influence can be found on the ripe aromas of various dark berries, prominent earth and violet scents. Somewhat surprisingly in the context of the reported yields, the mid-palate is not especially dense though I very much like the beguiling texture that is at once caressing yet powerful before culminating in a precise, serious and equally austere if notably longer finale. This is an opulent and refined Clos des Epeneaux. Sweet spot. Outstanding. Drink 2030+
Jasper Morris MW, January 2022, Score: 90-94
I tasted first the cuvée from young vines, which did get rather overtaken by the summer conditions, and then the old vines which showed as a brighter wine, in sharper definition. What matters, of course, is the blend. This shows as having a deep dense purple colour, while the bouquet is almost stunned into submission by the power of the wine. There is a huge wealth of dark fruit, as black as it is red. Supercharged on the palate but finishes with a little crunch as good acidity plays alongside the tannins. The Clos des Epeneaux 2020 is still an atypically massive wine but this could well emerge as a quality player with time. 14.5%
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